Author Topic: Maintainence costs? (Read 5103 times)

mothman · « **on:** September 20, 2006, 07:38:05 PM »

How much would I expect to pay for a valve adjustment and carb sync at a good dealer.
I could do the work myself I just don't have some of the tools I need...yet.
2000 Gsf1200s

Thanks.

curiousmike · « **Reply #1 on:** September 20, 2006, 08:18:23 PM »

That's prolly gonna be 2-3 hours of labor, TOPS.

2 hrs seems reasonable.

2 * $65 = $130 ?

solman · « **Reply #2 on:** September 20, 2006, 11:24:57 PM »

All I know is that I wouldn't be able to afford it. Probably be around $150-200.

ridenclimb · « **Reply #3 on:** September 21, 2006, 12:37:12 PM »

I usually do the valve adj myself but have taken it to the dealer when I was pressed for time. You can expect it will be around $250 at least here in CT. Maybe labor rates are cheaper elsewhere.. Two and a half hours at $80/hr is $200 plus $50 in parts (valve cover gasket and signal generator gasket) Actual parts mail order are cheaper but the dealer always gets a markup.

Not sure on the carb sync - have never had one done.

Good luck

David

theroamr · « **Reply #4 on:** September 21, 2006, 12:58:55 PM »

My local dealer has told me about $ 300.00. Thats why he has yet to even touch my bandit.

andrewsw · « **Reply #5 on:** September 21, 2006, 02:01:29 PM »

you should be able to buy the tools and parts to do the job for less than it would cost to have the dealer do it.

amboman · « **Reply #6 on:** September 21, 2006, 02:05:50 PM »

My brother in law has just the the valve clearance done on his B12, the dealer charged him $100. I thought that was pretty reasonable.

solman · « **Reply #7 on:** September 21, 2006, 02:42:48 PM »

I am thinking that I need to do some motorcycle work for people. I could charge less and still make good money.

00to60 · « **Reply #8 on:** September 21, 2006, 09:20:49 PM »

I think $150.00 sounds about right.

Daytona · « **Reply #9 on:** September 22, 2006, 10:18:36 AM »

Most will say 3 hrs! x $57.00 your lookin @ over $185.00 by the time they are done!!! Then you will have to get things to fit, Uncrimp and hook up all the hoses etc that they didn't!!!!

mothman · « **Reply #10 on:** September 22, 2006, 01:10:03 PM »

Thanks all. I should go ahead and do it my self though. In the downloaded manual I got here there is a special tool called the valve adjust driver. Is that somehing I will have to have. Also as the manual is vague is there any other special tools/parts that are must haves.
I would like to compose a bunch of information and then we could sticky that for noobs. The reason I need to get this done is that I'm riding to The Blue Ridge Parkway this next weekend and I'm at 8000 miles and time for service. I would rather spend my money on a new front tire( Ihave the new back).
If you all will help I will format that out to a easy printable version. Thanks all and good riding.

fake · « **Reply #11 on:** September 22, 2006, 01:49:20 PM »

I bought a manual and learned to do the valve adjustment myself. 1000K miles since the adjustment, and nothing has broke yet!

mothman · « **Reply #12 on:** September 22, 2006, 01:58:33 PM »

Just trying to avoid any pitfalls.
For example, the reason I have the Bandit is because I dropped a socket head down the camshaft of my cb750f. That's when I said screw it, it's coming all apart and I'm rebuilding it.
Needles to say that I bought a box end set the next day.
Ye just don't know what you don't know until you find out!

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #13 on:** September 23, 2006, 10:39:44 AM »

You do not necessarily need the OEM tool - just use a square drive screw mounted (screwed) into a block of wood. Use one long enough (2-1/2") and put a little glue on the end so it won't back out.

Also.... be very careful about the alignment dowels found on opposite corners of the valve cover. THEY CAN FALL OUT AND GO INSIDE THE ENGINE RUINING YOUR DAY. They will likely stay in either the cover or the head but make sure you're aware of them and be careful.

Also, try to leave the valve cover gasket on the head - it will likely try to come off with the cover but if you leave the half-moon part of the gasket in the head you won't need to reseal that part. Watch the little o-ring gaskets on the oil lines too. They can pop off and get lost easily. I usually put a zip-lock bag over the end of each line to keep dirt our and keep the o-ring in place. A small ballon works works well too.

Take your time and take pictures of the engine before tearing things apart - that way you know which hose, cable, line, etc. goes over which. I try to set the clearance to the middle of the range using a go/no-go set up of three feeler gauges. Middle one should go - the thickest one should not. Clean all gasket surfaces really well before reassembly to avoid leaks or weeping. Wipe/clean all fasteners of oil and BE SURE TO USE A TORQUE WRENCH to tighten things up.

Tools that will come in handy will be a socket wrench extension (3" long), an 18mm spark plug socket, a hex head socket that is modified to be 1-3/8" long overall (pound out the hex and cut or grind to length - reinsert), an 8mm combination wrench, 19mm & 10mm sockets and a rubber mallet.

Hope this helps.... I just finished doing mine and it always feel better knowing it was actually done and done properly.

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #14 on:** September 23, 2006, 10:47:24 AM »

Quote

I bought a manual and learned to do the valve adjustment myself. 1000K miles since the adjustment, and nothing has broke yet!

Oy!!!... you're due for another adjustment after a million miles!!!