Bandit 400 Variable Valve motor owners discussions!

[Banditmax]

lol i don't know what that box is meant to do but it certainly isn't for derestricting the cdi ive got even though it does plug inusing the normal connectors. doesnt seem to effect the top gear restriction or the rev limiter.

[Chris H]

LOL, i think Jay sold you an empty box! run a google search for cdi progressor, they made them for loads of 400/250s, M-parts and POSH also made them for home market racers, mine works ok. The resistor was 1.5K ohms i think? its light blue with brown/green/black/brown color rating, you could check the net for colors to be 100%, think it connects to the green/yellow wire under the seat but bike is in 1000 peices at mo so cannot check! i think it kids the cdi into thinkin its always in a low gear, im sure 4th and above restrict the motor.

[andrewsw]

sounds right. thanks.

A

[Uncle.Jay]

Hi guys,

I got now a Bandit 400 V too!

Probably it is the only one in germany


Its year is 95. Here´s a picture for you:
klick to enlarge


Poorly I got a problem, I have the manual for the 97s engine that has just the IN-cam
variable.
Mine is a 95 and the IN-cam and the EX-cam are variable.

I need the valve clearances for the older VC engine to check my valve clearances,
cause I´m not sure if they are the same with the newer models on the IN-cam-side.
And I also need the clearances for the EX-cam-side, too.

Please help, I just sold everything I had to buy that little girl

and when I looked under her headcover I got really sick, but no other
one will touch it

greets from germany

Jens

[Chris H]

Ask away Jens,
Ive rebuilt 2 VV's and can do them in my sleep. You got the first gen VV and the inlet gap is 0.10/0.20mm and ex is 0.20/0.25mm. You have to set the low cam/center cam to within spec using the large main shim, the cam needs to be set in the low position (all the way counterclock wise). Then set the cam to the high position (all the way clock wise)and set the two outer high cams with the small top hat shims, these are not obviouse and a pain to do they are also only available from japan and must be within 0.05mm of each other. Then after both cams are set you must set the cam back to the low setting and set the gap between low and high using the old style nut and pin, again to within 0.05mm, this is the gap you measure for the high setting BUT with the cam in the LOW setting, you need a VERY small 8mm tool for this, i got a small 8mm bit that fits in hex screwdriver and then groung it down till it fitted in . All gaps MUST be the same, so say a loose 0.15mm inlet 'set COLD' and a loose 0.20mm exhaust. The VV is a great idea but such a pain to do that they never took off due to service bills being 10 times that of normal valves. Also you need to take the radiator off, the thermostate housing, the coils and the cover gasket is not the same as the non VV. Hope this has not put you off as once youve done one its not too bad and the VV is a cracking motorcycle.
Chris.

[Uncle.Jay]

Hi Chris,

thanks for the clearances.

The normal B4 I know pretty well, my brother has one, my girlfriend has one, I´m builiding
one for myself with a RGV250 USD, B12 swingarm, 5,5 rearwheel and Ducati Monster seat.
We do all the things by ourselves.


Also I already looked under the head cover of my new toy, but I got there a few problems,
because I just had the clearances for the 97VV and I don´t have the special tool to
turn the cams in low and high position.

But maybe I can modify something myself to use it for.

Now that I´ve got the clearances I can start to check the engine exactly.
It´s really important to handle it well, cause I won´t get any party for this
engine in germany.

May you show me some photos of your rebuild bikes?

best regards jens

[Chris H]

Hi Jens,
No air box or headlight on in the picture. The bike is finished now but no picture at the moment. Regarding the tool for the cam position i just made one as the Suzi one is £90. Its 9mm cross the flats but a spanner is not so good. Use the screw that holds the throttle outer cable in the right hand switch housing and put it through the HT coil spacer and you got a tool. Forgot to say that the exhaust is reverse of the inlet regarding clockwise now becomes anticlockwise because when the inlet turns clockwise or to the high setting the exhaust is going in the other direction and get your head around this as you can set everything and anything with the cam in the wrong position giving incorrect results. I just write all the shim sizes down first and then swop them around so you only need to buy a few new shims and the low side shims are standard ones used by loads of manufacturers so take one in your local and see if they will swop for different size needed.
Chris.

[Uncle.Jay]

Nice One

what size is the rear wheel? stock front end?

[Chris H]

Started with GSXR400 gk73a sp 1989 complete rear end and front wheel, goes straight in-linkages, shock, everything, 160/60-17 and front 120/60-17 still using B4 discs. It makes a massive difference to the B4. Then went thundercat6 forks with spacers and one off 298mm discs as picture, altho ive just fitted B12 310mm's with caliper spacers as they fit the B4/GSXR wheel. The rear is the way to go, super simple and really suits the B4 but you got to get the 1989 rear as the 88 has 18" wheel and poor rubber. You can also use Mk1 SV650 wheels in 4.5" and 3.5", same discs/fittings.
Chris.

[jodyvan]

Wow that is sexy! How can I do that to my worn out Bandit? I have a VV too but I want to clean it up nice. I'm here in BC, Canada and there aren't many bikes like it and I have decided to keep it now instead of sell it. I will be taking it to a mechanic for most of mechanical stuff if I need as I'm not mechanically incline but any ideas and help you could give would be most appreciated.

Cheers!!

[nos]

hey,
how much could cost vv engine? is it fit into gk75a year1995 frame?

[aNiMaL]

oo, just spotted the MJ youv'e listed above .
I have a VV 400VR .
I have been having running problems , intermitent running on 1 , and some times 3.
i remember the first time i tooke the carbs off ,it had 105's in 2 of the carbs ( cant remember which )
and 102.5's in the other 2.
As the manuals i had said 102.5's i swopped out he 2 105's for 102.5's .
Now i see ur listing them as suposed to be in there ?? .

I have been testing by spraying water on the pipes as they bend down from the barrels .
last time i took the carbs off and refitted, i had ( lets call it 'fizzal' ) on all 4 pipes on first start.
I got the bike to be back gate and while opening it, the bike stalled ( put the stand down while holding clutch in still in gear ).
got the bike out the front and restarted but now i not got fizzal on pipe 1. its hot, but not enough to make the water fizzal.
I go to me mums anyway.
when i get back i fizzal test again, and now its not fizzaling on 1 & 3 ??.
Next day its back to just 1, not fizzalin .

Do i need to put the 105's back in ?
I have a Fuel end can im planing on putting on, ( DB thing removed ) so will need to up the MJ a little, 2.5 - 5  ?
will they have to be odd sizes too ?

Jay

[Chris H]

My B4VC ran 102.5 on all mains, never had 105's in and with 102.5's it always ran a little rich. If you are not getting clean running on some of the cylinders and have good sparks it will be pilot jets, had my bike do the same last week and the No.1 pilot jet had a microscopic piece of dirt in it.

[aNiMaL]

OK, just about to go out and take the carbs off yet again .

One thing about these Pilot Jets / Screws .
Do they have an effect on the bike above idling ?

After looking it up in the manual, and not sure im understanding it all properly
The Slow System lists all the pilot stuff as if its for tick over / idle .
& the Main System lists the Main , Air & Needle Jets are for when u rev the bike.

Im just curious ,as the #1 down pipe dont get 'fizzal' hot on idle or revving.

jay.

[Chris H]

Its not so simple because the pilot system flows all the time so has an effect on the main jet, plus the B4 pilot jet gets its fuel supply from from the main jet/emulsion tube system and not direct from the main float bowl, this means if any part is not spotless you can get bad running. The Suzi 400's are well known for their carbs being very easily upset and ive had the very problem youve got only a couple of weeks ago due to a piece of dirt in the pilot jet.