BATTERY NOT CHARGING 100%, regulator problem???

[tomacGTi]

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htm

Suzuki makes a great motorcycle but they have crap-tacular electronics. I'll be testing my bike tomorrow with this test as I had to bump-start it today after it had: started and ran (10 miles or so) and then was shut off and battery was flat trying to kick it back over.

Ironically, it started up fine the rest of the day (how does this happen?)

-Randy

[interfuse]

Ironically, it started up fine the rest of the day (how does this happen?)

-Randy

Check to see if your battery connections are loose! If one of the connectors are loose sometimes it'll start fine, other times it won't, depending on how attached the connector is to the battery.

[benallenuk]

ok, done the rests and here are my results

Voltage over battery at 2500rpm = 13.2volts
voltage over battery at 5000rpm = 12.84volts

Voltage straight from stator at 5000rpm > 80v on all 3 wires

also did a ac generator continuity check, all fine.

When checking the regulator/rectifier resistances I couldnt get a reading from my multimeter.  set on ohms on auto range.  nothing.  

I was hoping for 3.5Kohms between yellow 1-3 and red, and 3.5Kohms between b/w and yellow 1-3

whats up?  Do the results above sugguest anything?

cheers

[stormi]

When checking the regulator/rectifier resistances I couldnt get a reading from my multimeter.  set on ohms on auto range.  nothing.  

I was hoping for 3.5Kohms between yellow 1-3 and red, and 3.5Kohms between b/w and yellow 1-3

whats up?  Do the results above sugguest anything?

cheers

What is the "auto range"??

Ok,.. this is the test in the service manual?   The results suggest that you don't have "the Suzuki" tester.  If you don't, you will not get the results you're looking for.  I've tried it.  It even notes this on page 6-4 of the tests you were doing.

Seriously, go to the link that I posted, print out that test and run through it.  Charge your battery up first though with a battery charger.  It doesn't look 100% charged to me right now.

[Stealth]

I did part "C" again.

For the first test I got a "1" nothing else just "1" on the left side of the screen

for the second test I got around 560-590 for the 3 yellows <-(There was no decimal point or anything... just 560 on the right side of the screen. It says in the sheet it should be 0.50 and it says it should be 0.50 on my multimeter instruction book too! but I got 560 - five hundred sixty)

for the third test I got "1" again, just a "1" on the left side of the screen.

For the fourth test i got same results as the second one


When I switched the multimeter to Diode Test, it says "1" on the left side of screen way before I touch anything with the leads. Then when I did the "first" one and the "third" one, The number just stayed at "1", didnt flicker, move or anything.

help me

does this mean my rec/reg is fcuked?

[stormi]

I did part "C" again.

For the first test I got a "1" nothing else just "1" on the left side of the screen

for the second test I got around 560-590 for the 3 yellows <-(There was no decimal point or anything... just 560 on the right side of the screen. It says in the sheet it should be 0.50 and it says it should be 0.50 on my multimeter instruction book too! but I got 560 - five hundred sixty)

for the third test I got "1" again, just a "1" on the left side of the screen.

For the fourth test i got same results as the second one


When I switched the multimeter to Diode Test, it says "1" on the left side of screen way before I touch anything with the leads. Then when I did the "first" one and the "third" one, The number just stayed at "1", didnt flicker, move or anything.

help me

does this mean my rec/reg is fcuked?

looks to me like your RR is fine.  The way that test is, you shoulld get 2 sets of readings.   one set is"1" or "OL" and one set is .5V (or, 500ish mV.)  This is exactly what you got.  

FYI, my meter reads exactly the same as yours does.

[Stealth]

Hmmm... What could possibly be the problem then?

I was kinda hoping it was the RR so I would have an easy fix. Looks like thats not the case.

Do you have any suggestions?

[stormi]

Hmmm... What could possibly be the problem then?

I was kinda hoping it was the RR so I would have an easy fix. Looks like thats not the case.

Do you have any suggestions?

Have you gone all the way through that test?  It should point out the problem.  If all the tests have passed then read the box at the very bottom of page 3.

[Stealth]

I took the Battery to a Shop and they said it was perfectly fine.

Im gonna do the Whole test again tomorrow and report back to you.

[Stealth]

Oh I forgot to ask one thing:

How do I perform a continuitiy test?

[Stealth]

no answer?

[benallenuk]

a continuitiy test bascially tests if a connection is present. Ie is a connected to b.

If you put ur meter onto the symbol for a diode, a black triangle with a verticle line on the end, touch the probes together you will get a zero.

[Stealth]

Hey Benallenuk, have you found out what your problem is yet?

And other people. When I check the AC Voltage on Idle it says 30Volts for each wire. And when around 5000rpm it says 71 Volts. I was wondering. Is 30Volts for Idle too low is it fine?

[interfuse]

AC voltage?

Try checking DC going across the battery at idle and 5000 rpm and report back.

Try reading through this thread. It got me though my charging problems and will give you an idea of what DC voltage the regulator should be pumping to the battery.

http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=5831&highlight=regulator

 

[Stealth]

when the bike is completely warmed up. My battery is at around 14-14.1 volts at idle. Then the higher I rev the bike, the lower the volts get. When I reach 5000 the volts are around 12