Author Topic: Stupid crappy f***ing float valves!! (Read 7870 times)

tomacGTi · « **Reply #30 on:** June 19, 2007, 11:25:02 PM »

Not that you want to take advice from a guy with a non-running bike at the moment, but...

I have one of those filters on my bike and it does flow very well however, since the bike is DOA for the time being, I decided to replace the 102.5 MJ for a 105. I removed the carb bottoms and found red dust. Not as much as before installation, but it was still there. I know the filter screen isn't as fine as paper, so take it with a grain of salt.

The filter did catch alot of the larger stuff but the very, very fine silty stuff it did miss. Mind you, my tank has a failing lining so if your is in better nick, then you have nothing to worry about. Having the clear tube to view through helps a ton as well.

andrewsw · « **Reply #31 on:** June 20, 2007, 01:55:57 AM »

yeah. I agree. But its the chunks that stick the float valves. The fine dusty stuff shouldn't really be much of a problem.

I'm going to Kreme the tank this winter...

gsxr400 racer · « **Reply #32 on:** June 20, 2007, 09:57:21 AM »

all these problems im sure i have had or others most of mine came last year during racing or the first few years of this bike i had to kreem the take as well due to the red dust ordeal plus i had a pin hole mine has been done for like 3-4 years now and still good to go. if your tank is not to bad best to save money and get some muriatic acid from the pool cleaners and put about 6-8 cups in and fill with water let stand for 8 hours then drain , also find a way to make a plate to cover the fuel valve hole i use a old tube as a gasket and a piece of aluminum stock for a plate

pmackie · « **Reply #33 on:** June 20, 2007, 03:43:02 PM »

Quote

get some muriatic acid

You should have better luck using Phosphoric Acid, such as CLR or similar. My experience with Muriatic is not good with rust issues. Not as much of a problem with the fuel tank, since you fill it with hydrocarbon fuel after cleaning, but Phosphoric acid reacts better with the iron oxide.

You should be able to put a bottle of CLR into the tank full strength. Circulate it around LOTS, then flush with water, then flush with solvent.

Just my experience...

andrewsw · « **Reply #34 on:** June 21, 2007, 01:43:44 PM »

now that's a good idea, the CLR, as a short term fix, but I'd not want to do that for long. I think if the rust has started, its best to do it all the way. Otherwise you're just wearing away the tank slowly...

.02

A

gsxr400 racer · « **Reply #35 on:** June 21, 2007, 07:09:13 PM »

Quote from: "andrewsw"

The fine dusty stuff shouldn't really be much of a problem.

...

this is the shit that plugs up the slow jets all the time

andrewsw · « **Reply #36 on:** June 22, 2007, 01:33:05 AM »

gsxr400 racer claims:

Quote

andrewsw wrote:
Quote

The fine dusty stuff shouldn't really be much of a problem.

this is the shit that plugs up the slow jets all the time