Author Topic: carb problem  (Read 2987 times)

Offline tomx611

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carb problem
« on: March 01, 2010, 12:33:26 PM »
Hi

i start to syn my carb, but i only got one pressure gauge...... once i remove the cap of 1st , it still ok but little rev down. 2nd to 3rd are same as 1st. but the 4rd one will make the engine stop.
Anyone meet this problem before? pls give me some advice.

i also found the 2nd problem, i use a tachometer to tune the pilot screw, i got 2rd to 4rd also 1.5 to 2 turns out, but the 1st one need 3 turns more, until i turn it near out (about 5 turns), the rev still not drop. what 's wrong of that. i found the pilot screw spring got some rust, did it affect that? or i need replace a new pilot jet?

Offline tomacGTi

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Re: carb problem
« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2010, 07:31:37 AM »
You're doing it wrong.

-First off, set all of the mixture screws the same. Two turns out is the recommended.

-Removing any of the vacuum caps with the engine running and nothing attached to them will cause the bike to run like crap.

-With two guages it is difficult enough as you match pairs but one guage is pretty hard (not impossible). Look on Google on how to make a manometer for synching carbs and search here as well for how to do it. The topic has been beaten to death (literally).


Offline tomx611

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Re: carb problem
« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2010, 08:44:10 AM »
thanks tomacGTi

i fixed the problem of the pilot screw, i changed new o ring for them and they get nearly turn for each carb. i read from the honda common manual. it said need tune for each carb. but after i connect a tachometer, it's not statabe and have 180 rpm variation. i don't know which is the best way to set it.

i tried use engine oil for the DIY manometer, but the air can pass though the oil. any good liquid recommand for that?


Offline tomacGTi

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Re: carb problem
« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2010, 06:23:14 PM »
Do yourself a favor and download the factory manual off the site.

If you don't use reducers in the tubing, you'll need to use something heavier like gear oil.

Connected to opposing carbs, you'll need to reduce or increase suction via balancing screws to one side or the other to equalize the vacuum. If one side sucks it all down, you'll obviously need to reduce it there and so on.

IIRC you connect 1-3, 2-4 then synch the banks to one another. I use a 4 way manometer myself so I see what they're all doing at the same time.

Offline tomx611

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Re: carb problem
« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2010, 01:22:06 PM »
tomacGTi

i tried to set the pilot screws 2 turns out, after that i also syn the carbs, i also set the idle about 1500rpm

but i found a problem
when i pull the throttle and release, it stay to 1800 rpm about 2second and then drop down to 1500rpm. did it ok?

but if i set about 3 turns out, it haven't 2 second problem, but seems more vibration from the engine.

Please help

tomx611

Offline tomacGTi

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Re: carb problem
« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2010, 09:06:12 PM »
First off, what work do you have done? Jet kit? Pipe? Totally bone stock?

Did it run well before you started messing with it? Problems before?

Did you read the factory manual? It tells you everything you need to do to get the job done.

I am not going to recite it verbatim but consult these posts:

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=209.0

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=284.0

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=11840.0

SERVICE MANUAL IN HERE...

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=10124.0


Offline tomx611

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Re: carb problem
« Reply #6 on: March 08, 2010, 05:55:17 AM »
all stock
i think the problem is present since i got my bandit.
i read the manual detaily, it only tell the reader don't turn the pilot screws.

actually, i changed the o rings under the carb caps, then it's fine, i think there's got leakage in there.

thanks tomacGTi