Carb Cleaning, Float Needles and Emulsion Tubes

[scorpionsf]

just a quick question about the emulsion tubes. i am doing a full carb rebuild on my B4 and am wondering where the flat sides of the emulsion tubes go in relation to the carbs.

also. i have no clue how to get the float needles out!!! i see the grooves that the pins go in, but i just cant get them to go more than like 50% of the way out of the grooves before part of it hits and gets stuck.

thanks,
brandon

[interfuse]

Not really sure what you mean by your emu tube question. But you can separate the float, tubes and needs.

[scorpionsf]

yeah. i am struggling really hard to get them apart. there is contact before they come completely apart.

[tomacGTi]

Screw the main jet back in 1-2 threads and smack it with the END of a screwdriver, that should pop it apart. At that point, you'll also see the flat spot you're asking about on the tube that mates up with one in the center of the slide.

There's an 0-ring at the base of the slide to watch out for as well.

[Levi]

Im doin the exzact same thing on my B4. isnt it so fun. I was wondering on your carbs, do you have the pilot jets plugged with rubber stoppers? If so what carbs are plugged or unplugged?. On mine 1-3 are plugged and no.4 is unplugged. Ive ordered 2 new floats and needles cuz mine are so warped they wont sit right. Getting all the o-rings replaces except the seals bewteen the carb bodies. and I hope that does it. Also have you ever taken any carb bodies off of the rail? and seperated it from the rest? I want to re sync them but have no tool yet. If I didnt touch the linkages and all the butterfly valves look like there opening at the same time Will I be ok. Or is it once you move anything you need to re sync them? Anyway can you let me know hows your carbs turned out? and any other tricks or things to watch out for? Thanks. 
Keep the rubber side down brothers !!!!

[interfuse]

All carbs should have plug. Sounds like one got lost along the way. Don't separate the individual carbs from the bank. You should resync after touching carbs but if it idles okay then you're fine (in my experience anyways). Carbs turned out great, but took a lot of tinkering to get jetting properly. Advice: replace everything at once and be done with it.

[Levi]

Ya I didnt want to take the carbs off the bank but I havd to get to the main fuel tee seals. So I had to take two of them off. Well see when I try to start it.  Actually that plug has always been gone. I thought one of them was supposed to be missing for whatever reason. Some say take them all out but im not to sure about that. I dont want to do this again so im tryin to get all rubber I can get to now.

[scorpionsf]

mine are all out of the bank. way too much to clean. and i had two vacuum hardlines to fix anyways. so hopefully i can get them all back together okay. not too worried though

and levi. my (metal) plugs are all drilled out. its necessary to get to the pilot air screw.

Screw the main jet back in 1-2 threads and smack it with the END of a screwdriver, that should pop it apart. At that point, you'll also see the flat spot you're asking about on the tube that mates up with one in the center of the slide.

There's an 0-ring at the base of the slide to watch out for as well.

i have ZERO clue what your talking about. my floats are out. thats not the issue. my issue is getting the two pieces of the float apart so i can replace the float needle. see the picture in post 2. thats what i cant do.

[Levi]

You just need to be a little forceful and push the "frame" part apart untill the little pegs on the float part come out. There where the float piviots in the frame. Then you can get to the needlle valve. Let us know how it went. and Thanks for the info. So your bike runs good with out the plugs?

[scorpionsf]

You just need to be a little forceful and push the "frame" part apart untill the little pegs on the float part come out. There where the float piviots in the frame. Then you can get to the needlle valve. Let us know how it went. and Thanks for the info. So your bike runs good with out the plugs?

yeah i got those pivots out and into the grooves, but before they come completely down the grooves the float bowl part of the assembly hits.

maybe my question should be, is it necessary to have them completely apart to get to the needle? (guess i should mention they are not in front of me right now to try it)


as far as the plugs being out, they do nothing. they are in there from the factory to make sure people dont mess with the pilot air screws without knowing what they are doing.

[tomacGTi]

I thought you were looking how to take out the emulsion tubes. Your initial post was a bit cryptic.

The floats are all brute force with finesse thrown in to keep from breaking them. There is no easy way there. You can disassemble them halfway to get to the float needle. It's still a PIA.

The rubber plugs are over the pilots so that they carburate via the MJ. Removed, they will run rich at idle, I've never tried to tune the bike without them myself.

There are tamper plugs over the fuel screws. Those are removable and should be so that you can make those all uniform.

I'm in the school of anytime you take the carbs out, you synch them. My bike is bad with vibes and I can tell even if the idle is good when they are out, it's pretty obvious to me. Even moreso if you split the bank. You can make a manometer or go to Harbor Freight and get a set of guages.

[Levi]

Cool thanks for all the help.

 Ya just be forceful with the floats. There tougher than they look.

So Im missing one plug and it seems that cyl. misses or stumbles on idle. Maby cuz the plug is gone so its running rich on that cyl? Im gonna try to plug it and see what happens. I get my two new floats later this week and got all my o-rings ready to go so I hope all this does it.

[scorpionsf]

Cool thanks for all the help.

 Ya just be forceful with the floats. There tougher than they look.

So Im missing one plug and it seems that cyl. misses or stumbles on idle. Maby cuz the plug is gone so its running rich on that cyl? Im gonna try to plug it and see what happens. I get my two new floats later this week and got all my o-rings ready to go so I hope all this does it.

you may want to check how tight the pilot air screw is in comparison to the others carbs first

[Levi]

Oh good catch.
 The pilot screw is the screw in front of the float bowl right? I see a screw there and its passage goes to the first port in the venturi body. I assume that it? Under the plugs are just jets. No adjustment there. But these pilot screws are supposed to be 2 turns out right. And even? As of now there not even. I had a guy re-jet the carbs and Im not sure if he messed with the screws or not.

[PitterB4]

Im not sure if he messed with the screws or not.

If the screws are visible, someone has screwed with them.  As Randy said, they come from the factory with little brass plugs over them.