No spark??

[Mick77]

  Well, the valve adjustment went well... except for a few minor details (like the leaky gasket) but I'll get to that.  A lot easier than I expected.  Moving on... Like an idiot, I neglected to do the minor tests before the major work, and after getting it all back together and still a cold #1 Cyl, I decided to do a spark test on that one.  Whaddya know, no freakin spark.  Here's the deal though.  I swapped the coil packs from one side to the other to try and isolate a coil problem, and see if #4 went cold instead, but it stayed with #1, leading me to believe that the problem was in the valves (stuck, tight, loose, whatever).  Is there something I'm missing??  Could the problem actually be in the CDI or somewhere that would be "forgetting" to tell the #1 cylinder to fire?  I'm at wits' end here.  Bout ready to sell the thing and buy a skateboard.  About the leaky gasket.. I figured I'd at least see if it ran right before I bought a thirty dolllar gasket only to trash it taking it back off again and having to buy 2 just to do it all over again.  Let me know what yous guys think of it.  Can't wait to see what I have to replace next!  Ok, I'm done now.  Sorry for the 

[Banditmax]

New spark plugs would be my first port of call.

[interfuse]

Vacuum line hooked up to the fuel tank?

The CDI either works or it doesn't. The fact the rest are firing says it working.

Did you take it for a drive? Does cylinder one fire above idle? If so you're looking at a carb problem. Search blocked pilot.

[PitterB4]

Man - I've been there with the B4!  You didn't swap the leads from one coil to the other when you swapped coils, did you (keeping the lead to #1 with #1)?  The reason I ask is the leads SUCK and checking them would have been my first suggestion.  I don't see how a valve problem would make that lead not spark.  

[pmackie]

Whaddya know, no freakin spark

Hey Mick77
Are you sure it is no spark? or is it no fire?

I would check the following first:
1. Spark plug (likely just replace it, or swap it with a good cylinder)
2. Plug cap and wire. Look for cracks, trim the wire both ends (1/8") and reseat cap and coil
3. Pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have fuel flowing/look for crud.

Next step is likely pull and clean the carbs, then check compression in #1 cyl.

Keep us posted.

[Mick77]

Well, it was late last night and I didnt want to wake the neighbors (again), so it was only a quick test against the cyl. head repeated several times.  I'll check a different plug tonight and see if that works, but I just replaced the plugs when I first found the cylinder wasnt firing properly.  I tried trimming the wire back and putting the cap back on to no avail, and I have drained that bowl probably 4 times (these days it's like pouring liquid gold outta the carbs)  On those coil packs for the B4, are the ends replaceable, or do I have to buy an entirely new coil? 

Can you tell that I'm dragging my feet about tearing into the carbs?

[Banditmax]

If cylinder 4 is working then cylinder 1 either has a dodgy spark plug or lead. Or carb problems. or valves but you sorted them. Take the plug outve cylinder 1 and put it in the cap and hold the plug to metal and then crank to see if you get a spark.

[Mick77]

I just went to the house for lunch and tried it again.  Apparently, i have a spark now.  I tried a different plug, but maybe i just missed it last night, cause both plugs are about the same condition.  So I'm guessing the carbs will have to come off tonite and I'll look at #1 and run some guitar wire around the holes and such...argh.  Unless anyone has any other suggestions, that is.  I'll try it with the plug IN when i get home late tonight and see if it's still missing with the different plug.

[Mick77]

well... the good news is that the guy that was gonna sell me the bike just said "take it, it's yours for all your trouble" because he didnt know it needed so much work.  He was only selling it to me for 400 bux, but hey, thats 400 bux i can do more work with now YAY!  the bad news is that no matter what I've tried nothing makes the #1 cyl fire.  Should I try the hotter plug?  That , and replacing the cap are my two cheap options left.  After that, its pull the head off and do a valve job, hopefully not having to buy any new parts... right...  How hard is it to pull the head?  Do I have to pull the whole engine?  How hard a process is engine pulling?  I'm not in over my head yet, but i'm chest deep in banditblues. 

[PitterB4]

If you have spark, the most likely reason that cyl isn't firing is a plugged up pilot jet.  Pulling the carbs and tearing them down and cleaning them will unfortunately become second nature... it did for me, anyway...

If that doesn't work, I would certainly check compression before dropping the motor..

[Banditmax]

Pull the carbs and clean them properly before you start digging around taking the engine out etc to do the head.

[Vanishing_Point]

Pull the carbs and clean them properly before you start digging around taking the engine out etc to do the head.

+1. That all my b4 needed doing after many hours messing about.

[Mick77]

Ok guys.  I let it sit for a couple of days to let some of the madness wear off.  I'm glad I didn't just start tearing things apart like I wanted to.  I will take the carbs off tomorrow evening and have a look-see.   I dont have to separate the 1 carb, right?  I mean, on my old twin, I just left them together  and took them apart that way, and since its just the one...  I plan to consult my handy dandy manual, but I wanted to ask anyway.. Am I going to have to re-sync them once I'm done?  My guess is no, as long as it fixes the problem, but if I knew all the right answers, I wouldn't be here asking dumb questions   Once again, I appreciate all of your input.  This is an invaluable source of information and help.    I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

by the way, taking the screw out of the fuel petcock DOES make it flow without a vacuum.  Awesome tip, and makes it a heck of a lot easier to start after taking the tank off and draining the carbs.

[Banditmax]

Yeah you don't need to split the carbs about to clean them.

[PitterB4]

Yeah... leave the bank all as one.  I always left them connected to the throttle and choke and just rolled them over in basically the same spot (laying towels or something on the frame will keep it from looking like mine did).  I didn't resynch after every cleaning.  But if you didn't get 'em synched after the valve adjust, I would.