Author Topic: regulator/rectifier (Read 13243 times)

PitterB4 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 30, 2006, 11:33:51 AM »

Jomed - that dude in your avatar looks FAST!!!!!!!!!!

jomed · « **Reply #16 on:** April 04, 2006, 11:52:54 AM »

Quote from: "Farre"

this is good, yes. As long as it doesn't go OVER 14V or under 12V it's good to go IMHO. Mine's currently always over 14 still waiting for the damn thing to arrive in the mail...

sir farre,
thanks for the reply, now i have a piece of mind that it works well.

i read the sukbog manual that the normal operating voltage of rectifier (with head light on at 5,000 rpm) is in between 13.5v to 15.5v???

which is which???

ride safely!

jomed · « **Reply #17 on:** April 04, 2006, 11:57:06 AM »

Quote from: "PitterB4"

Jomed - that dude in your avatar looks FAST!!!!!!!!!!

sir pitterB4,
thanks, this is just an avatar which i got somewher in this site. anyway, i rode a yellow banditv 4 and i/we practice track atleast once a month.

nice meeting you here sir pitterB4

Ride Safely!

gsxr400 racer · « **Reply #18 on:** April 05, 2006, 01:53:19 AM »

Quote from: "jomed"

Quote from: "PitterB4"
Jomed - that dude in your avatar looks FAST!!!!!!!!!!

sir pitterB4,
thanks, this is just an avatar which i got somewher in this site. anyway, i rode a yellow banditv 4 and i/we practice track atleast once a month.

nice meeting you here sir pitterB4

Ride Safely!

That is so cool ROB a groupie, cheers Meant no offense there new guy! cheers

PitterB4 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 05, 2006, 08:55:15 AM »

Oh damn, Jay that was too funny.

Jomed - that's me in the avatar. I was just teasing.

jomed · « **Reply #20 on:** April 18, 2006, 10:34:09 AM »

Quote from: "PitterB4"

Oh damn, Jay that was too funny.

Jomed - that's me in the avatar. I was just teasing.

HAHAHA!

is it really you? sorry for using your own stuff here... anyway, will change my avatar as soon as i learn how to upload my own picture/avatar here.

can i use it just for a month?

kidding!

Ride Safely

stormi · « **Reply #21 on:** April 25, 2006, 05:16:24 AM »

Quote from: "Herr Tod"

I'm not sure where I've read this... but it should help.

Quote
Suzuki Part - $295,.. in Vancouver, so likely a week to get it.
BMV F650 RR - $209 Calgary, likely a couple of days to get,
Honda CB400 RR - $160 in stock at the dealer.

I know,.. wtf right?

Based on a little research, we should be able to use any 5 wire RR as long as it will fit, or you are willing to possibly have to re-locate it. If you're stuck on the Suzuki replacement:
LT250, RGV250,DRZ400,GS400E, GSxR400 (including the import version),LT400, Rf400,GS500E,GSF250,DR250,DR350,DR650, and DR800 all use the same RR. Possibly the LS 650 Savage as well. ( since it's listed as the same part # by SX electronics as the bandit 400, along with the BMW F650 )

LOL! That was my post. I'm glad to see that the info is being put to good use. I've been running the CB400 RR since I made that post,.. and it's doing just fine.

The entire thread is here if you want to get the background:

http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=2305

Farre · « **Reply #22 on:** May 24, 2006, 12:08:35 PM »

bad news, kinda.
I installed the r/r from a CM400, with the six connections as expected. I hooked up the black one with a 12V connection ( the brown wire from the rear light, is the same as the license plate trick), i left the red and green unconnected so i could check how much volts i got while running..
Well, i was in for a nasty surprise! It gave 101Volts!!! Measured on DC Volts.
I'm going to check on gsresources again why the hell this could be. If i start the bike without this one connected i get 0Volts, once i touch the brown one, it jumps back up to 101-103 Volts

Why can't this shit work right from the first time!?

stormi · « **Reply #23 on:** May 24, 2006, 02:12:37 PM »

Quote

bad news, kinda.
I installed the r/r from a CM400, with the six connections as expected. I hooked up the black one with a 12V connection ( the brown wire from the rear light, is the same as the license plate trick), i left the red and green unconnected so i could check how much volts i got while running

I'm not sure what this license plate trick is,.. but why would your RR have 6 wires? Mine has 5, and I have a 91 as well. Did your original RR have 6 wires?

3 yellow, that go to the stator, one green ( used to be black?) and one red. This should be all you need.

Honda uses different colors for their hot and ground colors! Be sure that you're connecting the right ones! Honda uses green for the negative wire, and red for positive. What the heck is the brown for?

I can go take a pic if needed.

Farre · « **Reply #24 on:** May 24, 2006, 02:24:28 PM »

no no, the Suz R/r has 5 wires yes, the Honda R/r i have has 6, and yes green is the negative i know. The extra lead is a sense wire, it should be connected to a 'live' circuit, circuit after the key switch and already with +-12V on it. The license plate trick is just the "sensor" wire connected to the license plate number circuit cause it already has power.
...
ON top of that, i also have an R/r from a Honda CBR600 from 1989 with 7 wires, 2 green and 2 red (simply + and -) and when this one is connected i get ONLY 0.85Volts!!!

This is ridiculous! i bought two R/r's off of ebay and both seems to be useless scraps of metal! I tested them all for continuity and the yellow wires don't seems to be in the 20 Ohm range, more like 20 MEGAOHM

stormi · « **Reply #25 on:** May 24, 2006, 02:34:36 PM »

Quote

no no, the Suz R/r has 5 wires yes, the Honda R/r i have has 6, and yes green is the negative i know. The extra lead is a sense wire, it should be connected to a 'live' circuit, circuit after the key switch and already with +-12V on it. The license plate trick is just the "sensor" wire connected to the license plate number circuit cause it already has power.
...
ON top of that, i also have an R/r from a Honda CBR600 from 1989 with 7 wires, 2 green and 2 red (simply + and -) and when this one is connected i get ONLY 0.85Volts!!!

This is ridiculous! i bought two R/r's off of ebay and both seems to be useless scraps of metal! I tested them all for continuity and the yellow wires don't seems to be in the 20 Ohm range, more like 20 MEGAOHM

Are you sure it's in the MegaOhm range? (Not doubting you, just checking) My multimeter reads funny, and it turns out that it reads in megaOHMS, not in OHms,... ( truly made me crazy for a bit there)

So,.. at the stage that you're at,.. the stock one would cost you less than this.

Ok,.. do you have an option of getting a 5 wire RR? Then you're not needing to futz with things more than necessary.

Farre · « **Reply #26 on:** May 24, 2006, 02:39:54 PM »

yeah i'm sure it's Mohm.. i set the range from down going up till i got a reading,.. atthe 200K range still showing 1.*** and finally getting a reading in the 20Mohm, wasn't a happy feeling.
I am convinced that the R/r's should work, if they weren't faulty from the start, seems i have incredibly bad luck this moment. Anywho, i sent an email to the guy from the CBR600, maybe they're willing to show some goodwill, who knows.

Other than that... i don't know what i'm going to do, my brand new battery is empty of juice, and the rest is eager to go

Maybe i should just buy one at Electrex.. i hate to think inside the box

stormi · « **Reply #27 on:** May 24, 2006, 02:53:04 PM »

lol! yeah,.. that inside the box thing sucks.

Seriously, an RR from a CB400 will do the trick, any chance of swapping for one of those, or finding one that's on ebay? The really important part here is to find a 5 wire RR with approx. the same output. (Or at least not off a significantly smaller bike)

A trickle charger is a beautiful thing in these cases...

Farre · « **Reply #28 on:** May 24, 2006, 03:06:51 PM »

well yes! to summarize, i bought 2 r/r's, one off a Honda CM400 and the other from the CBR600. i did some research on the gsresources forum and the CM400 has a popular r/r, the Shindengen SH232, the extra lead thingie is only a detail. If it worked correctly i'd be riding right now..
Now, i could get another r/r from the guy i got this from, but he's a nice guy and last time we had such a problem with shipping, i don't want to give him all this mess again (and subsequently waiting ANOTHER 2 months!).
I'm not happy at all in going back on ebay and trying to grab another one that can be potentially broken, my bubble has just burst.., gimme time to blow a new one up willya?

yeah, a trickle charger.. so many expenses, so little income..

stormi · « **Reply #29 on:** May 24, 2006, 03:39:56 PM »

Quote

well yes! to summarize, i bought 2 r/r's, one off a Honda CM400 and the other from the CBR600. i did some research on the gsresources forum and the CM400 has a popular r/r, the Shindengen SH232, the extra lead thingie is only a detail. If it worked correctly i'd be riding right now..
Now, i could get another r/r from the guy i got this from, but he's a nice guy and last time we had such a problem with shipping, i don't want to give him all this mess again (and subsequently waiting ANOTHER 2 months!).
I'm not happy at all in going back on ebay and trying to grab another one that can be potentially broken, my bubble has just burst.., gimme time to blow a new one up willya?

yeah, a trickle charger.. so many expenses, so little income..

oK,.. both of the RRs test in the 20MOHM range? What are the odds?

The CM400 one, did you test it before you put it on the bike? Wow,... 2 months. That's a hell of a long time to wait.

What About a wrecker in your neck of the woods? You know what you're looking for now.

I don't like ebay as a rule. My one and only experience was less than awesome. Nothing like "winning" a bid on a windscreen, and having it arrive with so many stress cracks that you're afraid to put it on, for fear it's going to hit you at speed. I prefer to inspect what I buy before I buy.

True, a trickle charger is an expense, but it may save your battery, if this process takes much longer. There are a few brands out there that I can get from my -dealer- for about $45cdn,... perhaps you can find anohter source for better? what's a battery worth?