Author Topic: Timing Advancer  (Read 20757 times)

Offline Red01

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Timing Advancer
« on: March 11, 2005, 10:12:22 PM »
Timing Advancer
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FreediverGA
(8/7/04 2:15 pm)
What's a timing advancer?


What does changing out stock advancer with Dale's advancer when putting in his jet kit actually do?
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B12MHudson
(8/7/04 2:53 pm)
Re: What's a timing advancer?


http://www.holeshot.com/bandit/bndt_b6_stage1.shtml

Quote
"+5° timing advancer is highly recommended to complete the package when running a jet kit and a high flow exhaust system.
Better throttle response, more horsepower and torque can be expected throughout the rpm range."


The advancer is bolt on-easy, kinda like bolting on a slipon-easy.

Ride Safe,
Mike
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FreediverGA
(8/7/04 2:58 pm)
timing advancer


Thanks Hudson for the info!
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Red01SuziB12S
(8/7/04 6:21 pm)
Re: timing advancer


OTOH, Ivans dyno tests show it doesn't do anything with his jet kit.

If you are building a motor to make max high rpm power, such as in drag racing, you probably wouldn't use one either.

They do improve low and mid range throttle response with Dale's jet kits with otherwise stock motors.

Paul W
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hotdog
(8/7/04 10:54 pm)
stock advancer - valve adj ???


OK, I'll bite. What does the stock timing advancer have to do with valve adjustments?

Steve
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Red01SuziB12S
(8/8/04 12:04 am)
Re: stock advancer - valve adj ???


You'd be 5* off if you used the advanced trigger to line up the timing, I guess. Realistically, 5* isn't gonna mean squat for valve adjustments... but then I don't used the trigger to set the cams, I use the notches in the cams and turn the motor over with the rear wheel so I don't have to take the sig gen cover off cuz I'm lazy.

Paul W
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hotdog
(8/8/04 2:37 am)
lobes & notches


I've always used the lobe position as a guide. Same thing you are doing with the notches. It's amazing how many ways we use to get to the same result. I guess none of it matters as long as you end up with the correct valve lash.

I have had more than one person suggest that setting the valves in the firing order of the engine results in the smoothest running engine, go figger.

Oh yeah, my "on topic" response is that I use Dale's +5 advancer with Ivan's Jet kit. I like it.

Steve
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B12MHudson
(8/8/04 9:27 am)
misinformed


my valve adjustment was done for me...

When I bought the jet kit, they told me to save the stock advancer for valve adjusts, so I guess I've been hanging onto that part for naught... learn something new everyday...

I'll probably trade the trusty B12 for a dirt bike by the time another adjust is needed, but its good info to know,
Thanks... :thumbsup:
Mike
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Paul
2001 GSF1200S
(04/2001-03/2012)
2010 Concours 14ABS
(07/2010-current)


Offline Red01

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Poor man's ignition advancer
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2005, 10:17:13 PM »
If you don't want to spend the coin for an advancer, there's a DIY method.

This is robbed directly from Fast Larry's Service Tips for the Bandit 1200 - it's at the bottom of the page. I figure it's OK to post it here, since Larry got it from Andy Kinnard... and I am giving credit where credit is due.

Quote
Poor man's ignition advancer, no cost, just a little bit of time.......

So, how much should you enlarge the holes and twist the plate? Well the advance should be 3-5° and  1° is almost exactly 1mm on the edge of the plate. So enlarge the holes about 5mm. The best way to find the optimum setting is to dynotest the bike and try different settings. The advance units you can purchase, usually have a fixed setting of 5°. Be carefull not to over do it and listen for engine "pre detonation" which usually occurs at low RPM, high gear and high load. On an otherwise low tuned engine you could expect about 1-2 Hp in the midrange.


NOTE: How-to pics are at the above link.
Paul
2001 GSF1200S
(04/2001-03/2012)
2010 Concours 14ABS
(07/2010-current)


Offline Red01

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Timing Advancer
« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2006, 12:45:04 PM »
Since Larry's site has been hacked a lot and may or may not work, may I present...

The 9 Step Program On How To Make Your Own Adjustable Ignition Advancer
It's easy and best of all, it's FREE!

Step 1: Remove the Signal Generator Cover (right/front engine cover).
Step 2: Remove the trigger rotor by removing the bolt in the center.
Step 3: Remove the 3 screws holding the ignition plate and loosen the plate.
Step 4: Enlarge the bolt holes in clockwise direction. *



Step 5: Reinstall the plate and trigger.
Step 6: Torque the trigger bolt to 25-34Nm/18-25.5lbft.
Step 7: Rotate the plate counterclockwise and tighten the 3 screws.
Step 8: Reinstall the cover.
Step 9: Testride time!

* How much should you enlarge the holes/rotate the plate?
Enlarge the holes ~5mm. The amount of advance should be 3-5° and 1° is ~1mm of slotting the plate.
A dyno test will find the best setting, but if you have no dyno and the motor is not highly modified, try 5° first.

Be careful not to over do it and listen for engine detonation which usually occurs at low RPM and high load (lugging).
On a basically stock (rejetted fits in this category) engine you may seet 1-2 Hp in the midrange, but mostly it's improved response.

Aftermarket advance triggers you can by have usually a fixed setting of 5°, so if you don't go any wilder with your slotting than that, you should be safe.
Paul
2001 GSF1200S
(04/2001-03/2012)
2010 Concours 14ABS
(07/2010-current)