Author Topic: Rear Brake Pad Mounting Pins  (Read 3107 times)

Offline Sven

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Rear Brake Pad Mounting Pins
« on: June 18, 2006, 08:04:42 PM »
OK, after perusing the archive, I bought brake pads (front & rear) that many of you like.  And using the OEM service manual, I am attempting to replace the rear brake pads for the 1st time ever.  The outside pad actually looks OK, but I can't see the inside pad no matter how many mirrors I use.

In the book, it says "remove the brake pad mounting pins" but doesn't say how.  They are not screws, so they don't unscrew.  The don't have a head to grip with pliers.  And taking needlenose and GENTLY trying to PUSH them out didn't work.

How do you get these out?

(BTW, it's a '03B12).
2003 Suzuki Bandit 1200S | el Bandido de Cerceta | the teal bandit
2010 Yamaha FJR1300A | Gin Tama | the silver bullet
2002 Honda CRV | the dirt-colored car

Offline 2005B12S

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Rear Brake Pad Mounting Pins
« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2006, 11:19:57 PM »
Once the retainer clip is removed, use a punch and gently tap it out. Once you break it loose, it will come out easily.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED
1992 900SS

"The quality of the kite matters little, sucess depends upon the man sitting in it" Manfred Von Richthofen

Offline Sven

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Rear Brake Pad Mounting Pins
« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2006, 09:01:24 AM »
So they slide out either direction, huh?  I'll have to go look at that in a bit.  The cotter-like spring was easy to remove, so it looks like this will be simple to do once i get the pins out.  Thanks!
2003 Suzuki Bandit 1200S | el Bandido de Cerceta | the teal bandit
2010 Yamaha FJR1300A | Gin Tama | the silver bullet
2002 Honda CRV | the dirt-colored car

Offline Kickstart

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Rear Brake Pad Mounting Pins
« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2006, 04:35:30 PM »
Hi

They go into blind holes on one side (although it is a common bodge to drill it out so you can punch them out). They are well known for seizing in place.

All the best

Keith

Offline Sven

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Rear Brake Pad Mounting Pins
« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2006, 03:37:05 PM »
Today I started this task over and managed to get'er done!  I didn't drill the pin holes out, but used needlenose pliers to back them out.  I loosened the bleed valves and popped the top off the fluid reservoir to reduce the pressue on the pistons.  I used a short wrench to push the pistons back enough to slide the new thicker pads in place.  And finally I just cheated and bent those spring clips a bit so they allowed me to push the pins back in place without so much fight.  A final brake bleed, and then all was done!  They seem to grip well in the garage, so I can't wait to try them out on the open road.

Thanks to all who provided tips in this thread and elsewhere.  It only takes me 3-4 tries to get maintenance stuff done, I just wish I had more natural talent in that area.

BTW, I do *sometimes* feel pretty clever.  My buddy who did all this on his back brakes and changed his breake fluid, and then helped me change mine a few months ago not only didn't beleive there were two bleed valves on the back of MY brakes until I showed him, and then found the same was true on HIS bike.  And he's been riding 37 years!  Sometimes the experts aren't so expert!
2003 Suzuki Bandit 1200S | el Bandido de Cerceta | the teal bandit
2010 Yamaha FJR1300A | Gin Tama | the silver bullet
2002 Honda CRV | the dirt-colored car

Offline Red01

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Rear Brake Pad Mounting Pins
« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2006, 09:40:19 PM »
Quote

Sven:
It only takes me 3-4 tries to get maintenance stuff done, I just wish I had more natural talent in that area.



 :congrats: You should be able to get a job as a mechanic at a dealership then!  :roll:
From what I read of people's experiences, they usually get their bikes fixed right by the fourth visit - if they haven't decided to take up wrenching themselves before that.

 :stickpoke:
Paul
2001 GSF1200S
(04/2001-03/2012)
2010 Concours 14ABS
(07/2010-current)