Author Topic: Annoying Vibrations Around 5000rpm (Read 6631 times)

wantahertzdonut · « **on:** June 30, 2006, 12:10:07 PM »

I have a 1996 B6 with a little over 8000 miles that I bought used 500 miles ago. It vibrates a little at highway speeds which is something I've understood is normal for any I4 engined motorcycle. However the other day on my ride into work, the bike started to feel like it had more vibration than normal. I thought it might just be the chain being fairly loose so I put a little tension on it with no real cure.

When I got to work I revved it to about 5000 rpm (in neutral, stopped) and the vibration came right back, so I'm guessing it's the engine rpm causing it, not something in the drivetrain.

Is it possible that I could just have something loose somewhere or should I worry about something internal in the engine?

Also, what is the best way to check for proper tension on the chain? and how tight should it be? The manual says 20-30mm up-and-down play and I did the best I could to get about 25mm.

I'm new to bikes (but not mechanic work) so any ideas of what I should start looking for would be great.

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #1 on:** June 30, 2006, 11:50:33 PM »

Assuming you checked all the fairing mounting bolts and have considered other posted mods (rubber grommets, damping material, etc.) I would just tell ya to ride the snot out of it. Bandits make noise, vibrations and the funny thing is all that changes over time - either that or you just get used to it.

My 2005 B12 had similar issues - everyone (other Bandit owners) noticed how nice and smooth things were with my bike. Over the last year or so (and 25,000 miles) I have noticed certain noises and vibes come and go. Until it flat out QUITS don't worry about it.

Proper chain tension is covered in the FAQ.... I will say the "correct" way is to have the bike on level ground - you sitting on it - and check for the aforementioned free play. Checking the tension on the centerstand is easier but the chain will get tighter in "running mode" [off the centerstand] so leave it a little loose. In this case (as opposed to women) too loose is better than too tight.......

Hope this helps - anyone need another beer????

Chime in any time Red

IcyChaos · « **Reply #2 on:** July 01, 2006, 04:34:36 AM »

you might want to try some higher octane fuel. I know I went down to 89 for a month, and vibrations were coming from my engine. After running 2 tanks of premium those vibrations have gone away. I do have a B12 jet 3 w/ pods and a 5degree timing advancer though.

wantahertzdonut · « **Reply #3 on:** July 27, 2006, 12:19:50 PM »

Thanks for the heads up about the chain, I didn't realize it would get tighter as the suspension was stroked.

I'll also try some higher octane fuel. The book said to use 87 which is what I've been doing, but considering a fill-up is only 3.5 gallons usually, that's only $0.35 more to put 92/93 in

Did the board go down for the last month? I haven't been able to get on for some time, and was about to delete my shortcut thinking it was gone for good. I'm glad I clicked before I deleted! (off topic, I know)

rider123 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 27, 2006, 04:21:36 PM »

You could also try a carb sync.

wantahertzdonut · « **Reply #5 on:** July 28, 2006, 10:32:13 AM »

A carb sync at 9100 miles? Can they go out of sync that quick?

Daytona · « **Reply #6 on:** July 28, 2006, 10:33:43 AM »

Ditto on the carb sync! One other thing that many over look is the oil level! Just a bit too much and it will run much hotter, sluggish, leak oil where it didn't, vib, etc etc! A bit below the hard to get rite level line is better than over! Remember if you don't let the bike sit for 15 or so min after running it won't show the true level. Also want to kill a good chain just run it tight! about 2 blocks will do it in!! 1"+ up and down slop, with it on the H stand, min.

Daytona · « **Reply #7 on:** July 28, 2006, 11:22:23 AM »

Quote

="wantahertzdonut"]A carb sync at 9100 miles? Can they go out of sync that quick?

I.M.O. the carbs are out of sync from the factory! They need it done the most after the eng is broke in. Things change the most from new to worn in! If you can change your own plugs you can sync your carbs, and do it with the $1.60 clear hose. Search the forum and its all there how to do it!!! Makes even a great running bike soooo much better. Just don't do much turning on the screws!!! Even the light pressure of the screw driver will make a big diff.

rider123 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 28, 2006, 06:38:01 PM »

+1 on that. My carbs were pretty phucked out of the factory. I had to demand they drill the mixture plugs just so I could make the bike normal.

SNK · « **Reply #9 on:** July 31, 2006, 06:01:37 AM »

I REMEMBER THAT I FIRST NOTICED VIBRATION BETWEEN 5100 AND 5700 RPM BACK IN 1997 WHEN I TEST DRIVEN THE B6, AND THE SAME IS WITH MY B6 SINCE I BOUGHT IT FROM NEW, I HAVE RIDEN 3 MORE B6 AND ALL HAVE THE SAME VIBRATION.

A FRIEND OF MINE BOUGHT THE NEW 650 AND IT HAS NO VIBRATIONS
PROBABLY BECAUSE SUZUKI RECLOCATED THE FRONT ENGINE MOUNTING TO THE REAR.

IT HELPS WHEN YOU CHANGE THE AIR FILTER AND EXHAUST BUT STILL
VIBRATIONS ARE NOTICABLE AROUNT 5500 - 5900 (A LITTLE BIT HIGHER)

Daytona · « **Reply #10 on:** July 31, 2006, 09:35:48 AM »

Hey i don't know for sure if this will cure the 600, but i will tell you 1200 owners i have never heard of a 1200 this didn't help or make the vibes almost nil. Here is a pic of my rig. and a link to the Po man's sync forum so you don't have to search.

http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=2355&highlight=mans