lowered bike new rear shock

[mchollan2112]

I have a 2001 Bandit 1200 that I lowered 3" with links.  I'm only 5'6" and this put the bike where I felt comfortable standing with both feet almost completely flat.  When I ride 2 up the rear tire starts to touch the fender.  I used my Dremel to cut out some of the fender but I am afraid if I ride 2 up again its going to start rubbing on the inside of the seat, and eventually wear it away or ruin my tires.  If I replace the rear shock with something a little more stiff (like a shock from an 07 GSXR 1000) do you think I can avoid this issue?

Besides putting the bike back to its stock height, do you have any other suggestions?

Thanks,

[bullet5]

Are you running the original shock?  What preload setting do you have the current rear shock on?

If you're at a low preload, crank it up at least 2 turns.  If you're on the original shock then defiantly swap it for a different one.  The bandit 600/750/1200 rear shocks are well known for being very poor at keeping their stiffness.

Don't swap a new shock in unless you know exactly what fabrication is required.  A new shock will defiantly help the matter, but check out the other options first.  Oh and please tell me you didn't just cut a hole through your undertray

Bullet5.

[mchollan2112]

Yes I am on the original shock.  It's on setting 5, i can bump it up to the highest setting and give it another shot.  I read that putting in a gsxr 1000 shock only requires cutting the battery tray a little bit (10 mm I think).

I did cut a hole in my under tray.  I rode 2 up just down the street and back and the tire had already rubbed a hole right in front of where the toolkit goes.  If I can resolve the issue by replacing the shock I'll probably fiberglass back over the hole I cut, and maybe make a better tray for the toolkit while I am at it.

[smooth operator]

   I would ditch the oem shock. If it were me,I'd probably call Rick Tanenbaum (sp?) and get a Cogent shock from Cogent Dynamics. I've had him rebuild my Works Performance shock for mine. Motocd.com
   By lowering the rear of your bike like that,your taking away part of your stroke. So your limiting a shock that is already limited. I would think it might cause some mid turn handling problems.(Or traction problems if bottoming out)
  I made up some bones and drilled the holes 4mm closer. Thar raised my rear ride height 1 3/4". ( I was shooting for 1 1/2")I raised mine for more ground clearance. I'd like to pick up a Penske or Ohlins with adjustable rear ride height,then sell my Works Performance. But disposable income has been short lately.

[mchollan2112]

I'm not looking for anything as amazing as a Cogent shock.  I also don't want to spend $500 on a rear shock just so I can get the wife on the back.  I found dozens of used 07-08 GSXR 1000 shocks on ebay and in some local bike shops for $50.

By lowering the rear of your bike like that,your taking away part of your stroke. So your limiting a shock that is already limited

So should I look for a shock that has a smaller stroke?  I have to admit I don't know much about suspension.

(Or traction problems if bottoming out)

I'm only about 150 lbs so even on the biggest speed bumps and pot holes I don't bottom out.  I do scrape the pegs a little when I lean into turns but it's no worse than my shadow or my gs500.

[pmackie]

Check out the "stickies". There is a note there all about which shocks fits the B12.

A 3" lowering is pretty drastic. You might want consider only going 1/2 of that (1-1/2") with a link, and look at reshaping the seat to gain some as well. You should also consider dropping the forks in the clamps some as well, but again, anything over about 3/4-1" is asking for trouble...Remember, you don't want to upset the whole handling/steering dramatically.

You can add an additional rubber bumper to the shock shaft to reduce the stroke, and look at a stronger spring, but the stronger spring alone will just delay when the tire hits the fender, not eliminate it.

I would suggest you rethink how much you lower the bike.

[mchollan2112]

Thanks pmackie.  I looked at the stickies, that is where I got the idea for the GSXR 1000 shock, however there are plenty of others.  I lowered the front forks as well, just under an inch.  I would have lowered them a bit more but the handle bars get in the way. 

I could bring the bike up 1.5" and cut away at the seat (hopefully giving me back the 1.5 additional inches) but I was worried about ruining the seat.  I'll have to do some searching around for a good tutorial on that and maybe search ebay for a spare for when I screw mine up.

I really like the bike and I would hate for the height to be the only thing in my way.  I have even grown accustomed to the weight (coming from a gs500).

[smooth operator]

  I have a corbin seat ,but I don't think it will work with the 2nd generation. Its for a 1st generation. I also have a GSX-R 1100 shock,but again, it would raise your rear ride height and lowering it with the bones might take away too much of your travel. You might be able to find a progressive shock on ebay. But you might have to keep looking till one comes up for a good price.

[mchollan2112]

Can you explain the benifit of a progressive shock?

[smooth operator]

  Its just a better shock, and progressive springs tighten up as it progresses in the travel. It would be a BIG improvement over the stock.A couple of the older members on this site went with the Progressive(I think Roamer from OH.)before moving to different bikes.
   There is a saying, the best you know, is the best you've ridden.  Once you get the suspension dialed in you'll wonder how you handled the bike before.  I set mine up for the way I like to ride the best. The miles I enjoy the most are on the race track,and I have my sag set pretty tight.(around 22-25 mm) both front and back. And anymore most of my rides are solo. There is free sag (the weight of the bike) and the total sag with the weight of the rider(s)and gear. And you want to use your suspension so the front and back work together as far as your compression and rebound. With yours bottoming out right now, I think it would be a disaster waiting to happen. Especially with a rider on board! Your not a heavy weight, and you shouldn't be bottoming out. What I did when I raised my rear ride height was have my brother-in- law (Has a fab shop)copy the bones and I drilled my own holes. What ever the difference is between the holes of the oem and the after market lingage bones you put on, I'd cut that at least in 1/2. I wouldn't lower the rear any more than a 1" tops.
  Find a fixed point, mark it and take measurements. And look up setting sag, because there are some good articles that can explain it better than I can.
  Your suspension is what helps keep your tires planted to the ground. And the traction of your tires are keeping you off the ground. I'm getting long winded now, I hope I can help. Dan
 

[mchollan2112]

OK, so what I understand is a progressive shock gets "progressively" more stiff as it is compressed.  This sounds like, and based off the prices I have seen so far, more than I need.  Most of my riding is my long commute to work (46 miles one way) on some back county roads, and the occasional weekend ride down by the beach.  I don't ride at any track days and I am not a very aggressive rider.

I bumped the pre-load on the stock suspension all the way up (7) but the wheel still touched the fender when I hit speed bumps with a passenger.  I could bring the rear of the bike up by an inch if I could cut away at the seat by an inch, but I really need to keep my ride height where it is.  My in-seam is only 30" or so and this bike it too heavy for me to tip toe.

Without a passenger the ride is pretty good.  That's why I thought I could get away with just installing a stiffer rear shock, but it looks like I am going to have to re-think how I have this setup.  smooth operator, I was looking at some of your older posts and you talked about modding you seat a little bit.  Did you ever complete that?  Do you have any tutorials I could look at before frigging up my seat?

Thanks again guys!

[pmackie]

Hey mchollan

I'm going to be a little more blunt...if the rear wheel (or especially the front) hits the fender under ANY conditions, then you have a serious problem!! The bike was designed with 4.9" of rear wheel travel. This likely left an inch or less space between the tire and fender at full compression. By lowering the bike 3", you have only 3" or so of travel before the tire contacts the fender...not good, and in my opinion, you should NOT leave the bike in this condition.

You have a couple of choices.
1. If you MUST leave the ride height where it is, then you must reduce the travel of the rear suspension. You can take the spring off the stock shock, and add additional rubber bumpers, likely an inch or so, so decrease the stroke of the shock. Then install a stiffer spring, and crank the rebound adjuster all the way up to full. This will leave you with a bike that has only 3" or so of rear wheel travel, which is not ideal...the idea is that the stroke of the shock must be reduced to prevent the tire from contacting the fender. This can be verified without the spring on the shock.

2. 2nd option is to raise the rear again, with different dog bones, and look at modifying the seat to gain some of the lowering you want. You can likely only drop the rear and inch or maybe 1.5" with the dog bones. Again, you need to verify that the tire won't touch the fender at full compression. Dropping the front as much as possible will help keep the bike balanced, and assist with the lowering. Again, you need to pull the fork spring out, and only drop the front until the tire still has space under the fender. You DO NOT want the front tire to contact the fender under any circumstances. Likely something like 3/4" is possible.

Either way, you shouldn't leave the bike the way it is, and a stiffer spring alone is not the answer

[smooth operator]

  smooth operator, I was looking at some of your older posts and you talked about modding you seat a little bit.  Did you ever complete that?  Do you have any tutorials I could look at before frigging up my seat?

  No I never did.But there might be something in the old post if you try a search.There were a couple Bandit owners that have. A friend of mine through my buddy's bike shop worked at a upholstery shop for awhile just so he could earn to do it.(mostly auto) He mentioned what worked good for cutting the foam was a electric carving knife. Then you will still have to pattern your covering,maybe a heat gun might help.
 I'm challenged enough just trying to gift wrap a present

[mchollan2112]

Alright pmackie I'm think I am understanding now. 

With option 1 I can remove the shock from the bike and add rubber bumpers above and below the spring so when the spring is fully compressed with the additional bumpers it will never contact the fender.  I image this will make the ride much stiffer because the spring would always be somewhat compressed due to the additional bumper length.

Option 2 I think I have understood for a while but I am afraid of ruining my seat.

I think I am going to try a little of both.  Because of the positive things I have read about the GSXR 1000 rear shock up grade and the price I see on ebay I will install one of these.  At the same time a friend of mine has his own CNC machine so I will take some measurements and get him to machine me dog bones that will only reduce the stock ride height by 1.5" ( i realize that the GSXR shock will change the ride height so I will wait until after that gets installed to take my measurements).  I feel fairly confident that I will not be able to tippy-toe the bike at that point so I will recruit the help of the wife to customize the seat.

Sound good?  Is the best way to check fully compressed rear tire travel to remove the spring from the shock and reinstall everything and lift the rear tire until it stops?

Thanks again for all your input.  This is going to be a fun project and hopefully a really awesome custom fit ride.

[pmackie]

Is the best way to check fully compressed rear tire travel to remove the spring from the shock and reinstall everything and lift the rear tire until it stops?

Yes, but you might find it hard to remove the rear spring...usually need a special spring compressor tool. Also, the rubber bumpers would need to be added to the shock shaft when the springs are off as well.