Author Topic: 2001 - 1200 (PLUGS & TANK removal for PETCOCK ) - IDEAS/ADVICE ???  (Read 6385 times)

Offline getsum

  • Board Regular!
  • **
  • Posts: 14

OK -

I am going to take the TANK OFF and change out the PETCOCK since it is giving me issues.

ANYONE WALK ME THROUGH THIS PROCESS ???
Also -

While the tank is oof,  is this the time to change out the PLUGS ??
IS IT SIMPLE TO GET TO THEM WITH THE TANK OFF ?
-- IFOF ????


THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO YOU CAN/WILL GIVE ..


Offline Sven

  • Site Supporters
  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 1918
  • Drop the puck!
    • My site is always under renovation!
Re: 2001 - 1200 (PLUGS & TANK removal for PETCOCK ) - IDEAS/ADVICE ???
« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2008, 12:30:02 AM »
You can actually replace the spark plugs without taking the tank off, although the service manual says to remove the tank.  (I guess if you have super jumbo hands, that might be harder.)  With the tank off, they might be easier to get to, but then you have to deal with removing the vaccum hose, the fuel hose, the fuel tank breather hose, the water drain hose, and the fuel level gauge wire.  So just do it with the tank in place.

Following that logic, I would try to remove the petcock without taking the tank off.  But taking the tank off is not hard at all.

You remove the screw that holds the petcock valve handle on (leave it in the "on" position).  (You take this handle off only because the handle will not clear the frame when you pull the tank up.)  You remove the bracket that the tank is attached to under the seat.  The service manual would have you remove the hoses, but I have learned to put a 4x4 post under the tank to raise it enough to get to the air filter.

The "fuel valve" is held on with two screws.  The OEM service manual says to replace two gaskets and and o-ring when you take the valve off for cleaning/replacement.  I hope they came with the new valve you have.

When you put the tank back in place, just tuck the front back in place first, and the back end will line up where it attaches under the seat.  Watch that you don't pinch any hoses.  Last step is to put the petcock handle back on.

I have not replaced the fuel valve, but I would be OK doing it if I had to...and I don't do much beyond the type of things I've described above.  Good luck! 
2003 Suzuki Bandit 1200S | el Bandido de Cerceta | the teal bandit
2010 Yamaha FJR1300A | Gin Tama | the silver bullet
2002 Honda CRV | the dirt-colored car

Offline getsum

  • Board Regular!
  • **
  • Posts: 14
Re: 2001 - 1200 (PLUGS & TANK removal for PETCOCK ) - IDEAS/ADVICE ???
« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2008, 06:14:18 PM »


PETCOCK IS CHANGED - 
Problem is gone.

Changed plugs
Changed air filter.

(NEW BIKE) 
    :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

YIPPPPEEEEEE...

Offline Red01

  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 8977
  • Are we having fun yet?
Re: 2001 - 1200 (PLUGS & TANK removal for PETCOCK ) - IDEAS/ADVICE ???
« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2008, 05:09:29 PM »
 :congrats: on a job well done!  :thumb:

As for Sven's comment on the plugs... I don't have jumbo hands, but I've always pulled the tank to change them for two reasons:
1) There is so much more room to work, it's worth the "trouble."
2) Plugs are recommended to be changed at 15K miles.  Valve lash inspection/adjustment is recommended at 7.5K miles, so this means you're pulling the valve cover off at plug changing time anyway - and that pretty much requires the tank to come off anyhoo.  If that can be done with the tank in place, I sure don't want to do it that way.  :bandit:
Paul
2001 GSF1200S
(04/2001-03/2012)
2010 Concours 14ABS
(07/2010-current)


Offline pmackie

  • Site Supporters
  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 1149
Re: 2001 - 1200 (PLUGS & TANK removal for PETCOCK ) - IDEAS/ADVICE ???
« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2008, 07:48:15 PM »
Glad to hear your back in business.

I would also pull the tank, it is so easy, I have pulled it off to add gas to buddies who ran out on the road. Faster and easier than using a syhpon hose.

I pull the tank whenever I work on the bike. I helps me make sure I don't scratch anything, but as Sven said, you don't actually have to pull it to do most work, including changing the petcock (assuming the fuel level is low enough).
Paul
2002-GSF600S, Progressive Fork Springs, B12 Shock,
SS Brake lines, EBC HH pads, Leo Vince Ex & Kappa bags.
Ex Bike Mechanic (late 70's), somewhat rusty
32 years in the Fuel/lubes industry(Retired)