Poor Mans Stage 1 kit

[deanozx10r]

Carbs back in the bike(them dam throttle cable kick my ass!!!) If I have time tomarrow I'll giver her a shot. Man I wish I could meet the guy that put the carb kit in!!! He put 6 spacers on one needle then I got to the last one there was five but one was bigger round that the rest, but theres a small spacer supposed to be on the top under the small spring for the retainer and it was gone. He use that washer/spacer for under the needle, I want to slap this dushe!!

[rider123]

I'm assuming they are all the same now right? 5 holeshots on each? He probably was just a little careless. If he thought all the spacers including the top washer(???)should be used to shim the needle then you're damn right it's going to be rich!!! Holy! What's worse if he put that top washer on the bottom of the shims the needles won't even seat properly and get stuck like halfway into the slide itself. It could have been the equivalent of like 10 shims(!) worth if the needles didn't seat properly, who knows? Even if he put the larger washer right under the doughnut so it seated properly, it's still at the minimum of 6+ shims worth. That, combined with 4 turns out on the larger pilots, I'm suprised the bike drove at all. Pull a plug and post a pic if possible. I'm sure it's blacker than a coal mine if you haven't fixed it already.

 If the carb float bowls have the hex bolts on there, if you need to change the jets don't bother taking the throttle and choke cables off, just loosen the boots and slide the carbs left and right in there so you can get to the inner carbs when you change the jets. If he had uneven number of shims on some of the cylinders I would hate to see what the sync would look like! Man it would be super wonky. If he synced it as best he could like that and you fixed it to where it should be I would sync them again to try and clean up the insanity. Just use the homemade ghetto style manometer method if you don't have the $100 tool, use the $5 ghetto tool.

Like this one:
http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=13207.0

[deanozx10r]

Ya I went threw and made sure everything was right, can I use just a strait piece of wood or do I need to use a yard stick for the syc. I think your useing the yard stick for the lines right to make it easier to keep things lined up. I havent learned how to sync carbs before but I think I can figure it out, your adjust the mixture screws alittle to make them equal to the other carb your attacked to??

[rider123]

No just set all the mixture screws all the same for now. I guess that would be around 2.5 for you(at least to start). It doesn't matter what you use. I used a yard stick because I had one kicking around, but I could have ripped a branch off a tree as long as it was relatively straight. You just want something that will stand up right and relatively level a yard stick as a square bottom so it's sits nicely when propped up against a wall or the side of the bike. Since you are just making it so that the two sides are pulling together and one is not pulling more or moving the oil to one side you don't need to have any markings or anything, nor do the have to be level. The oil just shouldn't be moving from one side to the other.

Once the throttles are pulling all the same and the float heights and mixture screws are all the same. Then look and see if maybe one cylinder is a little lean or rich. But I highly doubt you need to adjust only one mixture screw far from where the others are set. Best practice is to make them all the same as much as possible. If 2.5 is too lean or too rich turn the ALL out until it's good. If a cylinder is slightly leaner or richer it probably won't make much a difference on the grand scheme of things.

[txbanditrydr]

Ya I went threw and made sure everything was right, can I use just a strait piece of wood or do I need to use a yard stick for the syc. I think your useing the yard stick for the lines right to make it easier to keep things lined up. I havent learned how to sync carbs before but I think I can figure it out, your adjust the mixture screws alittle to make them equal to the other carb your attacked to??

Check out this thread for some good carb sync information.

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=12666.0

[deanozx10r]

Went for a ride tonight oh boy that was chilly!!! Its 32 right now outside, it ran pretty good and didnt do what it did before. It pulled pretty steady threw the rpm range up till 10gs, before when I would rev it-it would puff black alittle bit from being to rich. When I rev it now its really snappy and no more black puff. Now im going to make that cheap sync tool and do that then she'll pure like kitten!!! It idles alittle rough but I can deal with that right for now. Rider if you were closer Id bring you some beers!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Buddy!!!!!

[deanozx10r]

Ya I went threw and made sure everything was right, can I use just a strait piece of wood or do I need to use a yard stick for the syc. I think your useing the yard stick for the lines right to make it easier to keep things lined up. I havent learned how to sync carbs before but I think I can figure it out, your adjust the mixture screws alittle to make them equal to the other carb your attacked to??

Check out this thread for some good carb sync information.

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=12666.0

Sweat thanks good info sounds easy!!!

[rider123]

No problem. I had the same issue because if you follow Dales instructions he makes no mention of where the screws should be with the larger pilots in there so you turn the recommended 3.75 turns and it all goes to shit. Now that they are more or less where they should be or at least closer you should be getting a more normal fueling. Because it's so cold you will probably be experiencing a little leaness, which you should be. If it ran perfectly at 32 degrees at summer temps you'd be back to rich hell-land. After the sync and when the temps go up a bit you'll be in better shape to adjust as necessary. Hell 2.5 may be a little rich still at 75F but at least your not drowning your engine now and your fuel economy will go up as well as the power. If you're good at say 2.25 at 75F, now you know when fall comes around and temps go below say 50F you can turn the mixture screws out to 2.5 to give you a little juice when its colder to improve warmups and drivability. If the previous owner synced it with his cluster phucked shim job then yeah I'm sorry it will probably need a sync very very badly.

That link that txbandit gave you is a good one. Take a perusal and see if you're confident enough to try the poor mans carb sync. If you need help just grab one of us here to walk you through the sync process, it only takes 30 mins and the hardest part is the crazy vacuum nipple positions on the carbs.

[deanozx10r]

I wouldnt say it was perfect yet the little testing I did but ya this spring/summer when it warmer I'll fine turn it. What size plug wrench is that plug?? I used metic deeps and standards I didnt feel anything grab.

[rider123]

Did the bike come with the tool kit? There should be a hexagonal tool in there that fits inside the head. It's a 17mm I believe if you use something else. In fact who knows when the previous owner even changed the plugs? Might be worth a look to see if they're rough. If you want to keep them for now, take some light grain sandpaper or even a nail file and get as much of the deposits as you can off there lightly. Just don't go crazy with a grinder wheel or something. Also if it was synced all crazylike with the previous owners experimentation, you may have a cylinder or two a bit lazy which would kill some of the smoothness and power as the engine is dragging around a lazy cylinder. A carb sync will cure that.

[deanozx10r]

I dont remember if it had one or not . I'll have to do some looking

[rider123]

Should be under the seat toward the back end of the bike underneath a rubber strap. It's a black pouch filled with tools.

[deanozx10r]

Ya I know where it is just dont remember if I took it out and tossed it or kept all of it.

[rider123]

Well don't sweat it too much you can get aftermarket tool kits.

[deanozx10r]

I dont need the kit but the right socket to get in there, tryed again tonight and a 17mm socket does what the rest do and dosent grab(cant feel the shoulders of the plug) and ya its a deepwell. On a different note went into the shed smelled gas and looked. On the bottom of the bowls were wet but no puddles, bike wasnt flooded(started right up). Hopefully the oring on the bowls will expand or i'll have to pull them and replace them, this happened on my race bike with the thermastat oring.