Author Topic: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit  (Read 56306 times)

Offline deanozx10r

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #30 on: December 04, 2011, 01:38:26 PM »
Heres a pic from this last spring first of the year with snow still on the ground in MN

Offline rider123

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #31 on: December 04, 2011, 02:00:15 PM »
Well if I had access to my storage facility(its shared) I would have probably just sent you the extra 112.5's I have but they're stuck there until the guy gets back in the spring. Trust me the jets are cheap. In fact I would buy a set of 110's and a set of 112.5's so if the 110's aren't enough you can just pop in the 112.5's. Since your airbox that has been wired up it may be ok to get the 112.5's in there but I'm not sure if the stock filter can flow enough even with the extra .5" of an unsnorkled hole I guess you can test it out. You may be a shim less than the other guys here with the stock filter and 112.5's. The other solution is ditch the chicken wire or whatever the hell is in there and get a snorkle. In that case I would definately recommend the 110's.

I'm on 110's now and I just took a look at my plugs and I'm a bit rich, however I have the larger pilots in there so I have do a crazy ass calculation to figure out what the equivalent turns are. Also larger pilots even with the equivalent turns will pump out a bit more gas so I may turn them in another 1/4 turn in the spring or go down a shim as I think it's a bit rich on the needle but it may be that the larger pilots are slightly phucking up the jetting. ( I should have kept the stock! Arggghhh!)

If you want to do a temporary fix tape over a 1/4 of the airbox hole that will at least get it to the point of what it would be with the snorkle without the smoothing benefits.
« Last Edit: December 04, 2011, 02:23:43 PM by rider123 »
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.

Offline Octane

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #32 on: December 04, 2011, 03:29:55 PM »
Hey Rider123,

The EFI tuner module I have is the Healtech FI Tuner PRO. It's map based rather than "screw" based :trustme:.
Dales system works but is flawed - better more precise fueling can be achieved with a map based system where you can add OR SUBTRACT fuel. Have a look at the Healtech site they tell you all about it. It's not as "easy" as the TFI / Two Bros Juice box but it's a hell of a lot more precise you can add or subtract fuel and it IMHO is alot tidyier - no piggy backing plugs - plugs straight in to the expansion plug for the EFI computer. But this is heading to a different topic.

My B12 has the snorkle fitted with the 1.5" hole. One thing I noticed the other week was I was very low on fuel (1lt in the tank) and I opened the throttles up for some reason (do you need a reason? :trustme: I could see the fuel stop) and all of a sudden I soulded and felty like a massive lean out condition. These carbs are gravity fed - low fuel = fuel less eager to fll the bowls?
2006 B12 112.5 Mains, adjustable needles (full rich), std pilots 3.75 turns out, K&N, airbox 1.5" mod, Staintune exh.

Offline rider123

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #33 on: December 04, 2011, 04:03:51 PM »
Well that but really its the sloshing around thats the worst. Even if you accelerate which puts the gas near the petcock and just pause enough to shift would be enough for the gas to swish forward a bit then go back. Turning right, where all the gas is to the right of the tank off the petcock could theoretically starve the engine. When the engine is running there is actually a small amount of vacuum when the bike is flowing fuel through the fuel line as well as gravity feed. When this is disrupted, it's got to start all over again. Think of when you siphon fuel from a gas tank. You suck until the gas flows through then you can just let gravity and vacuum surface tension take over. If you lift the siphon hose above the tank being siphoned from it stops, but then just putting the hose back doesn't start it again, it must be sucked on again to get the fuel flowing.

With enough fuel in the tank there is actually a positive pressure when the petcock flows so usually its no problem, that and the natural gravity and little tiny bit of suction is usually perfectly fine. Once you are low enough the gas starts swishing around and cause air bubbles to form in the fuel line which disrupts the smooth flow of fuel. Normally you really have to get low like you said maybe a pinky's worth of fuel left to have it get a little weird.

The real danger is if you have fuel injection you should never ever run the tank dry on a fuel injected engine. The fuel is pressurized by a little pump and if that pump goes dry it start over revving and going jihad to try and keep the fuel pressure up to no avail. You can burn out the fuel pump pretty fast like that. Usually on fuel injected bikes you'll notice the tank will say "empty" on the gauge or have crazy flashing lights and all kinds of warnings. When you open the tank you see there is still a quarter tank left and just go "stupid guage". The reason they do this is so that the theoretically lowest limit in the tank is enough to keep the fuel pressure up and won't burn out the pump.  While they are being a little too cautious, who pays for the warrenty when people start killing fuel injection pumps by running the tanks dry. Also they know 90% of the people are going to disregard the guage so there is enough in there for them to get to a gas station.

With gravity feed you can run it till its dry and it doesn't matter at all. I usually wait until I hit reserve then go look for a gas station, that way there is always enough in the tank to ensure smooth fuel delivery.




« Last Edit: December 04, 2011, 05:00:02 PM by rider123 »
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.

Offline deanozx10r

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #34 on: December 04, 2011, 07:47:19 PM »
Well if I had access to my storage facility(its shared) I would have probably just sent you the extra 112.5's

Its all good!! Im going to do this anyway and ya there pretty cheap. Im just glad you guys shared the info other wise I would have gotton the dyno jet kit with the k&n pods. This is way more cost effective!!

Offline deanozx10r

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #35 on: December 04, 2011, 07:52:40 PM »
Octane!! Did you get a chance to read the sport rider addition with the gsx 1250 up grade. They dynoed it stock at 94 rwh then after all the mods they got 120 rwh all bolt ons. After the comparison between the ninja1, fz1 and the gsx1250 they felt the suzuki needed some help.

Offline rider123

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #36 on: December 04, 2011, 09:04:46 PM »
Well thank god you didn't get a Dynojet kit, for the Bandit 1200 they work horribly. One guy here got so pissed off he sold the bike over it.
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.

Offline deanozx10r

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #37 on: December 04, 2011, 09:16:39 PM »
Ya that would have sucked!!! I put one in a 2001 R1 with a pipe and it worked really well.

Offline rider123

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #38 on: December 05, 2011, 10:13:01 AM »
Ya its weird they work perfectly on %99 of the bikes out there but for the Bandit 1200 they suck dick. I was trying to help a guy on here with his and it was like impossible to tune. For one thing their mainjets they use are actually LEANER than stock so you know how thats going to turn out. Then they make it up by having the float height super rich(11.5!) and having aggressive tapers on the needles to make up for a shitty mainjet. The icing on the cake is you have to use their jets and not standard Mikunis. I have a feeling that the Bandit is so hobbled no amount of fancy needles are going to fix it, you need LARGER jets period. Also the guy who he took it to instead of ordering the proper jets when it was lean, just DRILLED(OMFG!)out the Dynojet jets. So it went from dangerously lean(couldn't even get past 8000 RPM) to horribly rich. The guy finally just gave up. Too bad if he just bought a kit from www.holeshot.com or asked us we would have told him. He came after the fact when the horse has left the barn and the barn burnt down. I pity the guy who gets that bike as it has to be jetted from scratch. If they know what they are doing they'll pick up a nice bike for cheap if they don't it will just get thrown on the thrash heap of a "problem" bike when all it needs is $12 in jets. A shame.

Whats worse is he bought it stock and he said it was driving fine and the mechanic(you know the wanker who DRILLED the jets) Recommended he get a Dynojet kit and a slipon and all he wanted was a carb sync/clean. Oh man!

I think the real reason they suck for the Bandit is they were made for the GEN1 Bandit which has a slightly different setup with carbeuration. The Dynojet people probably just looked at the engine and said. "Well it's the same engine, so phuck it" But that doesn't work when the carbs are different. So I think the real reason is Dynojets lazyness.

The kit came with 96 98 and 100 Dynojet jets which on the translation table is

87.5 90 and 92.5 Mikuni. Holy leaness batman!!! The Dynojet jets are roughly 4 points below the Mikuni jets!! They mostly line up with the Keihin jets...sort of. Dynojet measure by the hole but Mikuni measure by the flow of CC's/MIN which is more accurate. So even with the Largest mainjet in the kit he is still 4 points BELOW stock. For him to get even just the stock jetting he needs a 106 from Dynojet. For 110 equivilent Mikuni it's a 118 from Dynojet. So you see the problem with their kits. Now they have a crazy ass rich float height so probably the kit should have come with 104 106 and 108's or something, at least 4 or 5 points richer than what's in the kit. They also use a closed airbox and a K&N so they probably don't need it much richer from stock but it shouldn't be LEANER!


 I've seen some dyno's from a couple of guys who, by praying to the Dark Gods in their basement, have actually got their kits running ok(jet size unknown) and they give you a few ponies less than the stage 1(around 108-110HP) we normally do. I believe that because the airbox is closed and even with no airfilter, there is only so much air it can get from that dinky 1.5" snorkel.

Put it this way if he just left in the old Mikuni jet he would be 4 points richer than Dynojets richest jet in their stage 1 kit. It probably would have worked better at least until the upper mid-range when it starves out. Don't get that kit!!! Or if you do get them to swap the jets for 104 106 and 108's to start. I firmly believe they can work well, but they need a hell of alot of tweaking. Even a 1.5" airbox mod and a Dynojet kit could probably work well it just would need bigger mainjets.

To be honest the engine doesn't give a shit how it gets the fuel it just burns well at certain conditions. If you stuck a Bing carburetor from WWII and it delivered the fuel properly it would work just as well as a kit. We are just going with what has the highest success and power rate with the least amount of work and Dynojet isn't it.
« Last Edit: December 05, 2011, 11:58:50 AM by rider123 »
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.

Offline deanozx10r

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #39 on: December 05, 2011, 05:48:40 PM »
Oh I hear ya I am so glad I didnt go that route!!! :thumb:

Offline Octane

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #40 on: December 07, 2011, 03:35:17 PM »
Sport Rider? I don't know what that is. Magazine?
MCN here in Oz did an article on the 1250 with Yoshi cams that was impressive. (hmmmmmm...scratches chin in thinking mode)

I'm very happy with the jets / needle setting and K&N / filter box mod combo but might get an advancer just to see if it adds that snappy throttle.
2006 B12 112.5 Mains, adjustable needles (full rich), std pilots 3.75 turns out, K&N, airbox 1.5" mod, Staintune exh.

Offline deanozx10r

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #41 on: December 07, 2011, 04:31:59 PM »
Sport Rider mag here in the states is the shit!!! :thumb: They do all the comparisons with all the classes of sport bikes and everything involved with sport bikes. The bike in that issue was a holeshot build stage one witch included a full holeshot exhaust, k&n with the entire lid cut except to hold the filter in, dobeck performance tfi tuning box and o2 bypass module. They said in there it was impressive and almost to much, my opion 120 rwh is not to much its just getting started. If you like message my your email and I'll scan the article and send it to you.

Offline rider123

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #42 on: December 07, 2011, 05:01:11 PM »
What really would be impressive is if they had an article on a Dynojet stage 1. Let's see those phuckers do that!!

You sure it was a full system? It's sounds like 120 is his stage 2 with a slip on. With a full system he's pulling 132 hp. Anything after stage 1 requires the secondary butterflies removed. You lose a little low end torque but get a huge boost in power.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2011, 05:08:39 PM by rider123 »
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.

Offline deanozx10r

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #43 on: December 07, 2011, 06:44:35 PM »
Ya that to!!!!! sorry :duh: Im looking at the dyno results now base was 93.7h at 8800 with 73.6t at 3400, mod bike 120.9h at 8400 with 86.7t at 5800. A different dyno might have higher readings but still it made over 27h with all bolt ons. That 27h is more power than a race ninja 250 makes :trustme:, you ever hear them things they sound like a bunch of bees comen :motorsmile:

Offline rider123

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Re: Poor Mans Stage 1 kit
« Reply #44 on: December 07, 2011, 07:20:24 PM »
It seems the new bandit is making 6-9 less horsepower than the old. Bummer! Torque isn't that much better either. If you look at my crazy little chart you can see the new Bandit is even more hobbled than the old Bandit. Which in some ways is a good thing as it has a higher horsepower potential. A stage 2 on a GEN2 Bandit with full system is around 120 this includes pods, etc. With the new GEN4 Bandit it's an extra 10-12 HP over that. This of course is without engine work, new cams, porting etc. As you can see you can unleash more ponies per dollar in the new Bandit than the old. Plus it has better gearing so when you do unleash all those extra ponies it should have a higher top speed and acceleration even with the extra weight, most of which will be eliminated from the horrid stock exhaust bikes come with nowadays.

All in all the new Bandit is the better bike even with the terrible hobbling. Also really the dyno number don't matter that much its the CHANGE before an after. If you had a dyno that said you made 50 horsepower on the bike but was accurate enough to show you increased horsepower X amount, thats all you really need. Dynos are usually within 5 horsepower of each other, and it depends on temperature, humidity, etc. THe same bike on a dry cool day may make 100 horsepower and on a hot and muggy day 95.
« Last Edit: December 08, 2011, 01:46:35 AM by rider123 »
2005 Bandit 1200, Modified Holeshot Stage 1 with 17.5 pilots 2.75 turns out, and 110 mains 5 shims. Muzzy Slip on w/mid-pipe, stock filter. 1.5" hole in the airbox lid.