Rear brakes suck!

[GP]

 Have any of you found an answer to fixing the horrible rear brakes on the 1200 bandit?... My other bike is a Honda PC 800 ..( think 3/4 size Goldwing) ..rear drum ..and with rear brakes only it will stop twice as fast as the Bandit ....I know I know..you use front brake only ...me too ....most of the time , but for parking lot speeds a rear brake stabilizes  the bike when braking ...an sometimes I just want them both ( Heck the fronts are good enogh to do a stoppie, don't ask me how I know  )
  So, better pads??? bettter Master cylinder ? what is the answer??

[ippo]

Firstly get soft pads.Really soft.

[PaulVS]

You can pick up a Galfer s/s braided rear line for $40 on Ebay, and get EBC HH pads for under $30.

That's what I did, and it made the rear much more responsive.

[Red01]

Just the SS line in the back will help a lot.

[Daytona]

Just the SS line in the back will help a lot.

Do they come with sintered pads now? I used em on the 98 with no prob, and made a huge diff! lasted much longer too. 

[Blade]

Have any of you found an answer to fixing the horrible rear brakes on the 1200 bandit?... My other bike is a Honda PC 800 ..( think 3/4 size Goldwing) ..rear drum ..and with rear brakes only it will stop twice as fast as the Bandit ....I know I know..you use front brake only ...me too ....most of the time , but for parking lot speeds a rear brake stabilizes  the bike when braking ...an sometimes I just want them both ( Heck the fronts are good enogh to do a stoppie, don't ask me how I know  )
  So, better pads??? bettter Master cylinder ? what is the answer??

I never use the rear brake at parking lot speeds also you really do not want a rear brake that will lock up. I would recommend like everyone else though going to the braided steel line and maybe the next step down from HH for rear a rear pad.

I use HH on the front and a Black pad on the rear, along with braided steel lines front and rear. If you want I can get you a price on what ever setup you want.

[K1958]

I just use the front.  Plenty of stopping power up there, especially with HH pads and SS lines.

[GETFURIOUS]

I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY REAR BRAKES.....

LAST SEASON I NOTICED THAT MY PADS WERE DUE TO BE REPLACED.....

SO.....I REPLACED ALL OF THE BRAKE PADS WITH THE FERODO SINTERED PADS.....

AS WELL AS THE BRAKE AND CLUTCH LINES WITH S.S. LINES AND ALSO REPLACED THE FLUID.....

I CHECKED MY ROTORS AND THE FRONT SEEMED TO BE REASONABLY SMOOTH.....THE REAR HAD A SLIGHT GROVE IN IT.....

AFTER ABOUT 3 WEEKS OF RIDING MY REAR BRAKES STARTED TO MOAN WHEN I APPLIED THE BRAKES.....

SO AFTER CHECKING THEM AND TRYING SEVERAL THINGS TO STOP THE MOANING.....I DECIDED TO REPLACE THE ROTOR AND TO AGAIN REPLACE THE REAR PADS WITH A SET OF FERODO PADS.....

AGAIN.....AFTER ABOUT 2/3 WEEKS OF RIDING THE REAR BRAKES STARTED TO MOAN AGAIN.....

AT THAT POINT.....I JUST DECIDED TO LIVE WITH IT FOR THE SEASON.....NOW IT IS A NEW SEASON AND THE REAR BRAKES ARE STILL MOANING.....

I NOTICED THAT THE (REPLACEMENT) ROTOR HAS SEVERAL GROVES IN IT NOW.....

ANY SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO PERMANENTLY SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WOULD BE HELPFUL.....

THANKS.....

[Blade]

I would recommend changing to Galfer pads and rotors next time. I feel that is a better pad and rotor, that is why I use them.

Also recommend maybe a little more bedding in time, you might be glazing the pads.

[PaulVS]

AFTER ABOUT 3 WEEKS OF RIDING MY REAR BRAKES STARTED TO MOAN WHEN I APPLIED THE BRAKES.....

Try putting some AGS Sil-Glyde Brake lubricant on the backs of the pads.  Works like magic. 

http://www.agscompany.com/products.php?line=6

[Daytona]

I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY REAR BRAKES.....

LAST SEASON I NOTICED THAT MY PADS WERE DUE TO BE REPLACED.....

SO.....I REPLACED ALL OF THE BRAKE PADS WITH THE FERODO SINTERED PADS.....

AS WELL AS THE BRAKE AND CLUTCH LINES WITH S.S. LINES AND ALSO REPLACED THE FLUID.....

I CHECKED MY ROTORS AND THE FRONT SEEMED TO BE REASONABLY SMOOTH.....THE REAR HAD A SLIGHT GROVE IN IT.....

AFTER ABOUT 3 WEEKS OF RIDING MY REAR BRAKES STARTED TO MOAN WHEN I APPLIED THE BRAKES.....

SO AFTER CHECKING THEM AND TRYING SEVERAL THINGS TO STOP THE MOANING.....I DECIDED TO REPLACE THE ROTOR AND TO AGAIN REPLACE THE REAR PADS WITH A SET OF FERODO PADS.....

AGAIN.....AFTER ABOUT 2/3 WEEKS OF RIDING THE REAR BRAKES STARTED TO MOAN AGAIN.....

AT THAT POINT.....I JUST DECIDED TO LIVE WITH IT FOR THE SEASON.....NOW IT IS A NEW SEASON AND THE REAR BRAKES ARE STILL MOANING.....

I NOTICED THAT THE (REPLACEMENT) ROTOR HAS SEVERAL GROVES IN IT NOW.....

ANY SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO PERMANENTLY SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WOULD BE HELPFUL.....

THANKS.....

On my 98 Bandit it was taboo to use the sinterd or so I heard! Now I have this Bandit 1299 on steroids and it uses the same rotor! same caliper, Same Pads as just about all zuk sport bikes. Sintered OEM installed. 23K miles and still going strong! Pads are half worn! Fronts are not even close to the worn out groove! The bandit would eat em every other rear tire. Same Pad?

[GETFURIOUS]

AFTER ABOUT 3 WEEKS OF RIDING MY REAR BRAKES STARTED TO MOAN WHEN I APPLIED THE BRAKES.....

Try putting some AGS Sil-Glyde Brake lubricant on the backs of the pads.  Works like magic. 

http://www.agscompany.com/products.php?line=6

THANKS.....BUT WE TRIED THAT TWICE.....

I would recommend changing to Galfer pads and rotors next time. I feel that is a better pad and rotor, that is why I use them.

Also recommend maybe a little more bedding in time, you might be glazing the pads.

USING DIFFERENT PADS AND CHANGING THE ROTOR AGAIN.....IS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS CONSIDERING.....

I WAS VERY CAREFUL TO RIDE A FEW MILES AND LET THEM COOL DOWN AND RIDE A FEW MORE MILES AND LET THEM COOL DOWN SEVERAL TIMES WHEN I CHANGED THEM THE LAST TIME.....

IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE THAT I SHOULD DO?....

THANKS.....

[PaulVS]

With all you've tried... it sounds like a caliper rebuild is in order at this point.

[Blade]

Accordign to most manufactures, it take about 100 miles to bed in a set of brakes. But racers do this in just a few laps. Here is some things that you might want to consider:

1. How old is the current brake fluid or when was it last changed?
2. Are you sure there is no air in the system?
3. Are you sure there is no moisture in the system?

Any of the conditions listed above can cause the brakes to drag when they get hot. This is because if there is air or water in the system it will expand as they get hot and force the brake pads on to the rotor. It is recommended that brake fluid be changed on motorcycles at least a once a year or more depending on how much you ride and conditions you ride in.

So if you are unsure to any of the answers above, I would recommend replacing the brake fluid. 

[GETFURIOUS]

With all you've tried... it sounds like a caliper rebuild is in order at this point.

I'VE NEVER DONE A MOTORCYCLE CALIPER REBUILD.....ARE THEY DIFFICULT?....

Accordign to most manufactures, it take about 100 miles to bed in a set of brakes. But racers do this in just a few laps. Here is some things that you might want to consider:

1. How old is the current brake fluid or when was it last changed?
2. Are you sure there is no air in the system?
3. Are you sure there is no moisture in the system?

Any of the conditions listed above can cause the brakes to drag when they get hot. This is because if there is air or water in the system it will expand as they get hot and force the brake pads on to the rotor. It is recommended that brake fluid be changed on motorcycles at least a once a year or more depending on how much you ride and conditions you ride in.

So if you are unsure to any of the answers above, I would recommend replacing the brake fluid. 

I AM REASONABLY SURE THAT THERE IS NO AIR OR MOISTURE IN THE SYSTEM.....

THE FLUID AND THE BRAKE LINES WERE CHANGED AT THE TIME THAT THE PADS WERE CHANGED.....I WILL BE CHANGING THE BRAKE AND CLUTCH FLUIDS IN A COUPLE OF DAYS JUST AS A MATTER OF MAINTENANCE.....

THANKS.....