Bandit GFS 1200 carb and other questions

[dreamer_onetwo]

Hey I am in Asheville, NC.   and I had some questions that I posted on the bandit forum that appartently is mostly UK users and they suggested I get on here.   

Here are the questions threads from the other forum.    Some of the questions haven't been answered. 
So any thoughts would be helpful. 
http://www.banditforum.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=55722.0
Also.  One thing I do need is a carb needle and a couple other carb parts like o-rings, seal, etc.    I've read some posts on here and am a little confused. Do I order a jet kit from the 2 sites listed on here or are they more for performance. ? ?

Any help would be appreciated.   Hopefully someone is willing to help a non mechinic who tinkers.

[txbanditrydr]

Must be a member to view forum link....   You might copy/paste your questions here.

BTW -  to the site.

[dreamer_onetwo]

thanks..

I am mostly a non mechanic so I might get some of the vocabulary wrong.    Live in Asheville, NC.
I have 3-4 questions.   Would appreciate any help.
History.   Bike has set for 4 years without starting it.  Before  it ran great, but over the winter gas went into the oil and filled it up..
Last year I took the carbs off and did a basic clean and oil change etc.   It started and ran several times but always quit.. then wouldn't start.
Now I am starting at it again and am in the middle of doing a better carb cleaning/rebuild job.
 

1.  I need to replace some carb parts and not sure where to buy?? .     Not sure I need a full rebuild kit, those seem to be about increasing performance?  not sure if I can buy just these parts??   If I should get a kit, confused about the kits I see and stage 1 or 2 etc.    I know I need to have one needle (see pics below) that is bend.   and probably a float needle ( see pic below.   Probably could use some o-rings too.   


2.  The float needle below .   the nipple on the opposite side of the rubber does not move in and out like the other ones do.. assume I need to replace this part?

3.  The below picture is of the inlets.   One of them is still full of oil, the other three don't have the oil.   I've had varying opinions this being a problem or not.    Any thoughts??

[pmackie]

Bike has set for 4 years without starting it.  

If the bike has sat for this long, usually the fuel starts to oxidize and decay, causing sludge and varnish deposits to form, which can start to plug passages in the carb body. It is usually necessary to dismantle the carbs, and give them a thorough cleaning. You can buy "Carb Cleaner" in various forms. I personally would dismantle the carbs completely, and completely immerse them in a vat of cleaner. To do this, you will have to remove ALL the rubber parts. You also need to dismantle as much of the carbs as you can. This will allow you to inspect all the parts, and see if anything needs replacing. Certainly, you DO need a new needle, and a new float valve. You can get them from Suzuki, or other on-line sources, such as "Bike Bandit".

You mentioned that the bike flooded that crankcase with fuel. This might indicate that the vacuum petcock may need to be replaced.

You picture also shows oil has collected on one of the intake valves. Are you sure this is oil? Could it be oxidized fuel from when the carbs leaked fuel into the crankcase? It is likley this is the intake that had the bad float needle valve, and this is left over oxidized fuel. You need to verify this. If it is really oil, then if has to be leaking down past the valve seal, and since the bike has not run in 4 years, it is not likley that there has been enough oil in the top end to leak down into the intake valve.

Anyway, here is a start:
1. Drain ALL of the old fuel from the tank. I would remove the petcock and make sure you drain it compeletely
2. dismantle and clean the carbs, replacing any suspect parts. Check all the o-rings, etc.
3. Likely new Air filter
4. fresh gasoline, likley new spark plugs, make sure the battery is charged and in good condition, and then give it another go...

[dreamer_onetwo]

Great information.   I actually understood most of it,  I think.

1.  I checked the fluid in the engine and it has a strong gas smell but it looks more like oil.. so it is probably some of both.
And it is in the same intake(?not sure what to call that.valves ) where the needle was bend and the little nipple part of the jet  valve that is not working.    I am not sure what the Vacuum petcock is.. Unless it is the valve that controls the gas with only prim, reserve, and on settings.        So what now?(I am in the middle of doing stuff on the list below) ...  do I need to check or do anything else about the fluid, other than crank engine to let it blow out.   ?   

2.  Can you buy just these parts or should I get a kit..   not sure which kits to get.  ie.. stage 1, 2.  etc.  I checked on OEM suzuki several days ago and I think just the jet valve was something like $50 bucks.. wow. 
 
3.  also concerning the petcock.       When I tell people about this they tell me it should have a off or shut off setting.  but best I can tell it doesn't? 

[pmackie]

Hi Dreamer

OK...answers to your questions:

1. Use a VERY CLEAN rag, and soak up the fluid. Make sure you don't leave any lint or foreign material behind. At this point, you will want to assume it is oxidized fuel. If it is oil, then you have bigger problems, like bad valve seals...would require a cylinder head rebuild.

2. A stage 1 or 2 kit is a performance modification kit, not a rebuild kit. With Ivan's kit you DO get new needles, but no kit comes with the float needle valve. Yup...I expect $50 or so is what they cost new. You can check with places like bikebandit.com or justsrus.com. There are other online places as well. Thers is a chance that you can clean out/free up the existing needle valve by using fresh solvent or gasoline. Don't use carb cleaning or some stong solvents if it has a rubber end. You will need a new jet needle to replace the bent one, and look over all you o-rings to make sure they are in good shape.

3. The Suzuki uses a vacuum petcock...there is no "Off" position. In either "On" or "Res" there is a vacuum operated diaphram that keeps the valve normally closed. You need to apply suction through the vacuum line that connects to the carb. So...if it is passing fuel when the engine is off, the diaphram is not keeping the valve closed. The "Prime" position bypasses the diaphram so that fuel flows all the time, no vacuum required. As I said, if the petcock flows fuel with no suction, then it will need to be repaired or replaced.

You need to clean and fix the carbs, clean the tank, make sure the petcock works, likely replace the air filter and plugs, put in fresh fuel and then likely it will start and run. I hope this helps...