Break-in for new Bandit

[MattDaddy]

I'm picking up my new 2007 Bandit with ABS in just over an hour!   I'm wondering what everyone thinks about break-in method that is best for the engine.  
I have heard some very divergent views from the 'take it easy' and follow the manual exactly crowd, to the 'run it hard' group that says good seating of the piston rings requires it to be run hard.   The 'run it hard' crowd isn't suggesting red lining it, but to push the throttle in short bursts to ensure there is enough pressure on the rings.

Here's a link with this philosophy http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

What opinions do you good folks have, and what have you done with your bikes?

[ZenMan]

Things to consider... you want your rings to seat, so you need to accelerate rather strongly at different rpms. Not so much quick bursts, but more like steady roll-ons and roll-offs between shifts.

At the same time, you don't want to score any bearings, so keep it under the recommended RPM's during the mileage intervals stated.

Also, you want your transmission gears to de-burr evenly, so shift up and down a lot, accelerating in each gear equally. Cruise in different gears too.

And, you don't want to score or burn your clutch plates, so no hole-shots or clutch-drops at high RPM's.

Lastly, I prefer to do my first oil change a little early, because most of your metal shavings occur during initial break-in. I'd say change it at 200 miles, but still keep your RPM's below the 5K limit until after the first 600 miles.

I plan on going to synthetic after 3500 miles... I'm using regular 10-40w till then to make sure everything is settled in good.

I'm sure you'll see some disagreement and alternate methods here, but that's how I do it anyway...  

[Red01]

I've been breaking in engines with a philosophy similar to the one in that link since I rebuilt my first engine, over 35 years ago. I was taught the theory of "break it in like it'll be used."

[txbanditrydr]

I was told by my dealer to run it like it'll be used.....  naturally I followed the book procedure - geez... 5th gear at 5,500 rpm is STILL 90 mph.  Like already mentioned - vary the speeds and rpms and you can't go wrong.

[pmackie]

Check out this thread...some good discussion on the subject.

http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=8096&highlight=break

[MattDaddy]

I asked a number of folks at the dealership today what they do with their own bikes (track and street) and heard some similar themes to what you've responded.  The common story I hear from almost everyone is to:
- focus on limiting RPMs to below 6K (for my model specifically)
- don't use synthetic oil until much later (5K miles or more)
- "vary the RPM" is almost a universal instruction
- focus on pushing hard enough on the throttle to provide enough compression (ZenMan I like the way you explained it as steady roll-ons and roll-offs on the throttle)

I picked my Bandit up this afternoon and will take it out on some country roads tomorrow.

Thanks for the responses and the link to the other thread. I haven't broken in a new bike before and didn't want to miss the one chance to do it right.

[banditone1250s]

I picked my 1250s up a week ago yesterday and went straight to Deal's Gap and Gatlinburg. It was indeed a sweet ride. The seat is a little hard compared to what I was accustomed to but it all worked out fine. I love the bike and it rides and handles like a dream. I kind of did like "zeeman" suggested; easy rolls on and easy rolls off the throttle, never over 5000r's. I also did the oil change early like he suggested at around 450. So far so good. The Bandit "ROCKS".

[leedogg]

well I couldn't stick to the strict break in rules in the manual.  I made it to about 150 mile before I just HAD to let her eat!  I have always heard the break it it how you plan to drive it motto- and it worked out great on the rest of my vehicles.  My normal driving is 5000 rpm shifts so for- so for the most part I stay below that...but it has seem 9K a time or 5.   The great thing about a torquey bike is that you don't HAVE to scream it to go fast.;)

I am getting up to 400 miles on her now- gonna let the dealer do the 600 mile service.  i don't like working on my toys- I just want to enjoy them.

[A1A]

Things to consider... you want your rings to seat, so you need to accelerate rather strongly at different rpms. Not so much quick bursts, but more like steady roll-ons and roll-offs between shifts.

At the same time, you don't want to score any bearings, so keep it under the recommended RPM's during the mileage intervals stated.

Also, you want your transmission gears to de-burr evenly, so shift up and down a lot, accelerating in each gear equally. Cruise in different gears too.

And, you don't want to score or burn your clutch plates, so no hole-shots or clutch-drops at high RPM's.

Lastly, I prefer to do my first oil change a little early, because most of your metal shavings occur during initial break-in. I'd say change it at 200 miles, but still keep your RPM's below the 5K limit until after the first 600 miles.

I plan on going to synthetic after 3500 miles... I'm using regular 10-40w till then to make sure everything is settled in good.

I'm sure you'll see some disagreement and alternate methods here, but that's how I do it anyway...  

Bingo!!!

What the ZenMan said!

 

[CWO4GUNNER]

To give the devil his due, Zenman's comments here are right on the money in my book as well (+1). If in doubt you cant go wrong following the manufactures recommendations. Its really only willful abuse during brake that can mess things up in these otherwise bullet proof engines.

Things to consider... you want your rings to seat, so you need to accelerate rather strongly at different rpms. Not so much quick bursts, but more like steady roll-ons and roll-offs between shifts.

At the same time, you don't want to score any bearings, so keep it under the recommended RPM's during the mileage intervals stated.

Also, you want your transmission gears to de-burr evenly, so shift up and down a lot, accelerating in each gear equally. Cruise in different gears too.

And, you don't want to score or burn your clutch plates, so no hole-shots or clutch-drops at high RPM's.

Lastly, I prefer to do my first oil change a little early, because most of your metal shavings occur during initial break-in. I'd say change it at 200 miles, but still keep your RPM's below the 5K limit until after the first 600 miles.

I plan on going to synthetic after 3500 miles... I'm using regular 10-40w till then to make sure everything is settled in good.

I'm sure you'll see some disagreement and alternate methods here, but that's how I do it anyway... 

Bingo!!!

What the ZenMan said!

 

[FastLarry]

Here's the second best one that I have found. The same guy writes one for doing it on the Dyno and that's best in my opinion... FL
Don't use synthetic oil until you have atleast 1500 to 2000 miles on the motor...... FL
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


Brock Davidson also has one that works very well..... FL

[ciso]

When I picked up my 07, the mechanic made the statement to ride it like you stole it.
Can't agree with that, but after maybe 70-80 bikes in my lifetime, I break them in like I am going to ride, but never abusive to the bike.
The first 200 miles or so, I am a little more conservative and then as stated before, change the oil and check all the torques.
Never have had an engine failure or trouble.

[DJP]

Like most of the above posters, I ran mine in using motoman’s method:

Warm the bike up for a few miles, then brisk acceleration up to 6,000 rpm and then roll off and allow engine braking to slow the bike to around 3,000 rpm in the same gear. Repeat over and over in different gears for the first 20 or 30 miles.

Thereafter ride normally – just don’t exceed 6,000 rpm for the first 600 miles. Even more important is not to “Lug” the engine at low revs - don’t run it at less than 3,000 rpm for any length of time.

Oh yeah, and stick to mineral oil for at least the first 2,000 miles.

I’ve run in 5 or 6 bikes this way and never had an engine problem.

Happy riding!

[tricky trucker trev]

Things to consider... you want your rings to seat, so you need to accelerate rather strongly at different rpms. Not so much quick bursts, but more like steady roll-ons and roll-offs between shifts.

At the same time, you don't want to score any bearings, so keep it under the recommended RPM's during the mileage intervals stated.

Also, you want your transmission gears to de-burr evenly, so shift up and down a lot, accelerating in each gear equally. Cruise in different gears too.

And, you don't want to score or burn your clutch plates, so no hole-shots or clutch-drops at high RPM's.

Lastly, I prefer to do my first oil change a little early, because most of your metal shavings occur during initial break-in. I'd say change it at 200 miles, but still keep your RPM's below the 5K limit until after the first 600 miles.

I plan on going to synthetic after 3500 miles... I'm using regular 10-40w till then to make sure everything is settled in good.

I'm sure you'll see some disagreement and alternate methods here, but that's how I do it anyway...