Author Topic: Mixing dino & synthetic oil  (Read 14430 times)

Offline Ed G.

  • Board Regular!
  • **
  • Posts: 11
Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« on: February 05, 2008, 03:52:33 PM »
Question:

I'm about to  change oil, at 4,000 miles,in my Bandit 1250.  Changing to synthetic - Mobil 1.
According to SUZUKI, the filter does not need to be changed. If I don't change the filter with the oil there will be dino oil left in the filter. Is that a problem?

thanks
Ed G.

Moderation in all things, including moderation.
Oscar Wilde
Ed G.
Moderation in all things, including moderation.
Oscar Wilde

Offline PaulVS

  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 980
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2008, 04:30:34 PM »
No, not a problem, but change the filter anyway. 


Offline pmackie

  • Site Supporters
  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 1149
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2008, 04:52:52 PM »
Mobil 1, being a PAO synthetic, will blend just fine with Dino oil...

As PaulVS says though, I WOULD change the filter as well, as it's pretty easy, and doesn't cost that much. If you don't change the filter, you can just drain it, and reinstall, gettiing more of the used oil out, but at that point, you might as well change the filter.
Paul
2002-GSF600S, Progressive Fork Springs, B12 Shock,
SS Brake lines, EBC HH pads, Leo Vince Ex & Kappa bags.
Ex Bike Mechanic (late 70's), somewhat rusty
32 years in the Fuel/lubes industry(Retired)

Offline CWO4GUNNER

  • Site Supporters
  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 1199
    • GUNNER G. CWO4 WEPS USCG Retired
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2008, 05:50:16 PM »
I recommend you use Mobil one for 4-stroke sport motorcycle engine blend, not automotive blend with EPA friction reducers.

Offline PaulVS

  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 980
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2008, 08:36:57 PM »
Many of the automotive Mobil1 blends don't have friction modifiers.  And I have yet to hear of anyone with issues  in a motorcycle even with the Mobil 1's that do have friction modifiers.

Don't waste your money on the M/C blend.... the difference in properties between 'Automotive Mobil 1" and "Motorcycle Mobil 1" is so negligible as to be almost zero.  While I love the improvement That Mobil 1 has over dino oil in my bike... the motorcycle specific Mobil 1 is just a marketing ploy to get you to pay more money.

Personally, I've tried almost all the Mobil1 oils in my bike, and I like the "automotive" 15w50 the best.
« Last Edit: February 05, 2008, 08:43:42 PM by PaulVS »


Offline Daytona

  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 1063
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2008, 08:42:32 PM »
Many of the automotive Mobil1 blends don't have friction modifiers.  And I have yet to hear of anyone with issues  in a motorcycle even with the Mobil 1's that do have friction modifiers.

Don't waste your money on the M/C blend.... the difference in properties is so negligible as to be almost zero.

Personally, I've tried almost all the Mobil1 oils in my bike, and I like the 15w50 the best.
:bigok:

Offline flickmeister

  • Board Regular!
  • **
  • Posts: 13
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #6 on: February 06, 2008, 09:53:43 AM »
The automotive modifiers are only in oils that are lighter than 10W-40 weight. As long as you stick with 10W-40 or heavier, you won't get the modifiers and won't have any problems. You don't need the motorcycle-specific blend. It is a pure waste of money. Unless you live in a really hot climate, use 10W-40 wt. The heavier oils don't lubricate as well because their thickness causes it to flow less freely than the 10W-40 stuff. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jack

Offline PaulVS

  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 980
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #7 on: February 06, 2008, 10:36:41 AM »
The automotive modifiers are only in oils that are lighter than 10W-40 weight. As long as you stick with 10W-40 or heavier, you won't get the modifiers and won't have any problems. You don't need the motorcycle-specific blend. It is a pure waste of money. Unless you live in a really hot climate, use 10W-40 wt. The heavier oils don't lubricate as well because their thickness causes it to flow less freely than the 10W-40 stuff. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jack

In the case of Dino... I might agree.  But with synthetic is isn't even a minor issue.  When I change my oil now (M1 15w50) I don't even get a momentary flicker of the oil light on first start up like I did with Suzuki's 10w40 Dino.

I've used both 10w40 Mobil 1 and 15w50 in Chicago climate and found the 15w50 runs noticeably cooler.  Just my $.02.


Offline Ed G.

  • Board Regular!
  • **
  • Posts: 11
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #8 on: February 06, 2008, 08:16:35 PM »
Thanks For all the input guys.

A local bike accessory shop (Cycle Gear) was selling motorcycle specific Mobil 1 at 40% off.  Came to about seven bucks a quart, so I bought some.

I know it isn't a big deal to change the filter, but if the manufacturer doesn't think it's worthwhile to change it, why bother?

Ed G.
Moderation in all things, including moderation.
Oscar Wilde
Ed G.
Moderation in all things, including moderation.
Oscar Wilde

Offline PaulVS

  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 980
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #9 on: February 06, 2008, 09:28:44 PM »
Thanks For all the input guys.

A local bike accessory shop (Cycle Gear) was selling motorcycle specific Mobil 1 at 40% off.  Came to about seven bucks a quart, so I bought some.

I know it isn't a big deal to change the filter, but if the manufacturer doesn't think it's worthwhile to change it, why bother?

Ed G.
Moderation in all things, including moderation.
Oscar Wilde

$7 a quart is about the going rate for m/c specific Mobil 1.  They normally charge around $11 a quart?    :shock:

For future reference, the auto blend has about a .05% different ingredient formulation than the m/c specific blends.... not worth the extra $3.60 a quart to me... I get 5 qts. at Wal-Mart for $22.

That savings pays for a new filter... which has much more impact than the slight difference between m/c Mobil 1 and auto Mobil 1.

« Last Edit: February 06, 2008, 09:37:23 PM by PaulVS »


Offline rkfire

  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 121
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #10 on: February 07, 2008, 11:05:18 AM »
To the original question, mixing dino and synthetic is ok with any brand if you NEED to. It does dilute the synthetic, so it will negate some of the advantage of 100% synthetic.

I can't see saving $6-8 on a filter even if the manual says it's ok. They don't seem to give a reason for that thinking. I'd especially want a new filter on a nearly new engine too, which may have metal filings in the filter.

A shop giving a 40% sale for motorcycle Mobil1 that sells it on sale for $7, first marked it up nearly 60% over retail..lol.

After break in, I went with Shell Rotella Syn, but then learned it isn't a true synthetic. Next time around I put in auto Mobil1 15-50, because it doesn't have the friction modifiers, and also has a higher zinc and phosphorous content that's been lowered for the energy conserving weight oil.

I am nervous about this weight tho, and I do use my bike in cold weather. I may change the weight, or go back to Rotella or maybe even the BIKE specific Mobil1 if I can find it easily.

Mobil's own site says: Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils do not require friction modifiers for fuel economy and for better clutch friction less/no friction modifier is optimum. Motorcycle oils allow the use of higher levels of antiwear additives such as ZDDP (phosphorous).

Reading that, you could easily say, well I'll just use the higher weight Mobil1 WITHOUT friction modifiers.

On the other hand, reading Mobil1's spec page for comparing ZDDP levels for the different weight oils, it shows the BIKE oil has 1600ppm ZDDP, the 15-50 has 1200ppm, and the energy conserving type has 800ppm. Reading this, it would seem there is more than a slight difference between the Bike oil and the 15-50.

Mobil's spec page: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

Offline PaulVS

  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 980
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #11 on: February 07, 2008, 12:18:26 PM »
it shows the BIKE oil has 1600ppm ZDDP, the 15-50 has 1200ppm

My math tells me that's a .04% difference between auto and motorcycle Mobil 1 formulations. 

I personally have a hard time believing that difference has any 'real-world' benefit.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2008, 12:20:06 PM by PaulVS »


Offline rkfire

  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 121
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #12 on: February 07, 2008, 12:37:25 PM »
With that logic, then the 1200 to 800 would have no effect either. On the other hand, my math tells me 1600 over 1200 is a 33% INCREASE. 1200 over 800 is a 50% increase.

Offline PaulVS

  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 980
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #13 on: February 07, 2008, 12:43:24 PM »
With that logic, then the 1200 to 800 would have no effect either. On the other hand, my math tells me 1600 over 1200 is a 33% INCREASE. 1200 over 800 is a 50% increase.

Right... but it's still parts per million.   :grin:


Offline rkfire

  • Board Homesteader!
  • ***
  • Posts: 121
Re: Mixing dino & synthetic oil
« Reply #14 on: February 07, 2008, 03:28:46 PM »
Yep