Since I had the carbs out anyway, I was thinking about the R6 throttle tube mod that our SV buddies do. Basically it has a different cam setup to pull more cable for each turn of the throttle, turning a 90* into a 1/6th.
Being the poor guy that I am and also with bum wrists from work and sports through the years, this appealed to me. I did notice that I had to switch up my grip slightly to go WFO from idle and it really made driving out of certain corners a bit more painful. Here's how you can make your own for not so much (free for me):
-If you have a bike shop nearby, get yourself a 5mm 1 1/8" headset spacer, aluminum if possible. The carbon ones are too thin.
-Remove your throttle tube and place it against where it where the cable goes in. Mark where the nylon is and cut the headset spacer to match (hacksaw and vise).
-Slide the cut spacer over the area that the throttle cable rests and reassemble. You'll have to slacken your cables a smidge but not so much.
Result: 1/4" less throw in the twist. I don't know how much that equates to degree-wise but basically allows you to have much less wrist movement to go WFO. This of course makes your throttle much more sensitive so use at your own risk. No mods are necessary to the switch assembly etc. when using headset spacers. If you make your cut accurate enough, no need to glue either.
Of course, you can use PVC like the R1 guys do but that's on you, it's thicker and may not work as well. Numbers wise, here are the changes:
Before: 29.5mm throttle barrel
After: 30.5mm throttle barrel
Good luck!
-Randy