winter rebuild

[Sean]

Hey I've been toying with stiffer valve springs cause I replaced my cdi when it burnt out with a derestricted one from the land of china. A higher redline would be cool. What are your thoughts?

[TJS]

I'm not an engine professional. But, I'm in USA and my cdi allows a redline of about 14,000 rpm. Any higher and I think titanium would be needed. I suggest starting a new thread and I'm sure some of the motorcycle mechanics can will help.

[Unique]

Thanks for your reply, I may pm you later, don’t want to bother you too much over the festive season.

I have read your sprocket posts/threads few times now and have just check the other posts you have posted here.

The rf arm and gsxr wheel are now in my b4 frame, I already have and was aiming to use rf caliper mounting bracket that slots into the slot on the arm. I can see for various reasons the b4 caliper won't work with this bracket, so was looking at a rf caliper...  The Rf’s wasn’t that popular over here in the UK so trying to find good rf part on ebay in the UK isn’t easy as it seams on your side of the water but before paying the P/P cost?... I was wondering if you had used something else I hadn’t come across or thought! ...which may be easier to find on UK-ebay.

I knew’ as you say the sprocket alignment and tire clearance is the bigger concern and needs to be right.  I have started looking at this step/measurement, etc.  but wanted to sort-out the caliper first.

[TJS]

The rear brake is the same on the 94/95 gsxr 750. Also see my cafe build thread. I went with two RM 250 sprockets welded together.

[RDUBandit]

Nice work!   

[Unique]

The rear brake is the same on the 94/95 gsxr 750. Also see my cafe build thread. I went with two RM 250 sprockets welded together.

Thanks TJS.. I check the 94/95 gsxr 750  out later and I knew you used with the RM250 sprockets welded together.
I was hoping to work on the bike over the pass two days, but been in front of the computer sorting out problems after a Norton restart-major crash  there always something stopping me from working on the bike  .   

[TJS]

Back from powder coating.

[TJS]

New All Balls race and head bearings, clean and grease swingarm bearings, and started putting things together.

[Unique]

Looking great and moving along at some pace.

How please are you with the finish on the powder coating.  Im still haven’t decided which way to go whether to us powder coating or not.

Plus..like to say a big thanks ... I thought all gsxr 750 94/95 caliper were around this year of the torque rod type.

I found 95 gsxr750 caliper, very clean with new looking pads on ebay.uk... the only good one I could find, for very good price.   Came today, fits the RF mounting bracket and fits the disc and wheel with no trouble, great.

[TJS]

I like the powder coating for it's durability. It is hard to remove though; if you change your mind about the color. One hint, when its time to paint or powder; put bolts in and cover any area you don't want painted or powdered. Using stripper or re-cutting threads sucks!

[TJS]

Brakes now have new seals

[TJS]

'94 and '95 GSXR 750 or RF 900 sprocket hub will work.

[Unique]

Hi TJS
You answered my question and more.
My measurement of 80mm was the depth from your starting point in "ref photo rsprocket 2" To the top of the hub where the bearing seal this and not the sprocket.
 
After all components were fitted on my axle I still had a gap and as I can’t be for sure my 5.5 wheel is off a 750/1100 gsxr or year (you can’t always trust what a seller is telling you? as he didn’t know the different between 4.5 and 5.5 was!)
Its seam Suzuki fitted different sprocket hubs at times I was wondering if this is why there was a gap.
     
I wasn’t after the measurement to the sprocket itself (oem 70mm) but this answered my question anyway, along with the ref photo "rsprocket 3". I now known our hubs are the same too, Well not at the moment' I’ve still to get my hub milled,
it’s hope too known you had 3mm milled off the hub.. ref photo "rsprocket 1".

and that the gap is again no problem once tighten-up.

I hope all the above makes sense to everyone!. 

[TJS]

Tell the machinist to keep the "lip" that the sprocket centers itself on. If not; your sprocket will not center itself on the hub when you tighten it onto the hub.

[Unique]

am where of the important of keeping the "lip"  "THANKS" for making sure I know and others! may not.

That's my next task to sort out the chain and sprockets and any milling need doing, I've started, but other things have' once again taking me away from the bike for while.