2007 Bandit 1250 ABS: Tightening the Exhaust Header Bolts

[treybrad]

I had to use a O MY GOD strap wrench to get it off.

Ha.. I didn't have a strap or wrench that'd fit that filter... but I did have a filter with about 6 screwdriver holes punched in it by the time I was done.  

At least I know I won't have to resort to that again... I won't be wrenching it on that tight... The foil trick worked great too.

trey

[notagix]

I just tightened my exhaust bolts, I removed the mounting bolts for the radiator and lifted it up abit and was able to get at the bolts with a long extension and a flex socket. I'm sure it would throw the torque reading out the window but at least i know they're tight.

[Henners]

I bought the standard Suzuki oil filter removing tool with the bike which is much easier than a chain wrench - cost equivalent to $16. I change the oil every 1250 miles - something that's stayed with me since owning Hondas in the early 70s. Took my 1250S back to the dealer for the first service at 400 miles (oil was black as hell) having negotiated at sale that they would provide the labour for free so only paid for oil and filter. I've used them for years, they know what they're doing and the bike was much smoother and everything had been carefully lubed, ran slicker and properly torqued down so was happy to do it.

[CWO4GUNNER]

I just use a pair of channel locks to reach in and get it broke lose and off it come by hand followed by a hand tightening to about 3/4 turn tight. I also use the older B1200 oil filters as they are about half the price then those listed for the B1250 yet identical except for the part number change.

[ippo]

Oil filters are cheap even in Finland --about 5-8$.

[H2RICK]

For myself, I do/do tighten the filter as per the factory recommendations....2 full turns after gasket first contacts the block.
If you noticed, the threads are quite fine compared to a "normal" filter so you probably need the 2 full turns to make a decent seal. My .02...

As to the oil on the header thing: I let it drain off as much as possible and then take an old oily t-shirt I keep around just for wiping the header down. Then a paper towel lightly moistened with solvent to get the remainder of the oil off, a final wipedown with a clean paper towel and I'm good to go. You've gotta start the engine to fill the filter and check it for leaks and to make sure the oil is circulating properly anyways....and this will burn off any residual oil and/or solvent. Stinks for about 3 - 5 minutes....but I know my header will never rust out.

Lastly: the first special tool I bought for my bike was the proper filter "socket" that fits over the top of the filter itself. On my 3G it's quite easy to get a 3/8" ratchet AND the filter "socket" in behind the header and on to the top of the filter. Gloves are recommended....just in case the header is still a little toasty when you attempt this. The filter "socket" was made by Imperial Eastman and it's their part #IF-6814. I bought it through work but I think they only retail at something like ~$15 which is cheap for a tool that saves so much time and aggro, IMO.
I'm not sure if you 4G 1250 guys can get use a ratchet/"filter socket" combo as easily on your engines but I can't imagine Suzuki would make it THAT difficult to remove the filter. I'd like to think they're not THAT dumb......

[Bandit1250]

I haven't done what you are trying to do, but.....As the first 600 mile check up (the $200 oil change) should be done by the dealer for warranty purposes, why not let his crew tighten the various bolts?

You "really" think the dealer go's around looking for loose bolts in that $200.00 glorified oil change?? They don't even "prep" the bikes right most of the time!

When I brought my 1250 home from the dealer the front tire psi was 22 lbs and the rear was 28!!  The Coolant was also very low.
Same thing when I bought my last new Kawasaki........the chain was so tight I was pissed and called the dealer to let them know.....also very low tire pressure, low coolant ect.....