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21

SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 / 13374-35C00 O-RING, FLOAT VALVE ASSY SEAT

« Last post by yuckhil on February 21, 2021, 01:34:16 AM »

I bought genuine Suzuki parts to rebuild the carbs, and the o-ring for the float valve assembly seat seems to be larger than the one already installed.  The Suzuki dealership ordered another set from Suzuki for me, and they are the same size as the first batch.

My customer record at the shop shows I purchased the same part number six years ago, and the parts I received then are currently installed on the assembly, see the attached photo.

The part number seems to be correct as item #21 in the parts list.
http://www.mickhone.com.au/partFinder/fiche/suzuki/2000/gsf250v/carburetor

The photos in this ad seem to be the same size, compared to the bar code printed on the sachet.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/202722106367

I am reluctant to cut off the currently installed o-rings in case the new ones are too large to reassemble the float valves.

Any ideas?  Thanks.

22

GENERAL MECHANICAL & TECHNICAL / Re: 1999 1200SX Rebuild

« Last post by sunnyorlando on February 06, 2021, 11:22:17 AM »

1999 1200 SX
First - All the manual and docs I find references a TPS (Throttle Pos. Sensor) from '97 on. My bike has the connection, but does not have the TPS - its not missing from the cabs, it just does not have it or any way to mount it. See 'Carbs pic 1'. The only ID on the carb is 27E5 1 kK8Z1.
> Possibility - someone replaced the carbs with an older model, but everything about the carbs else matches up.
>> If this is the case, what is the likely issue I may have if the ICU does not sense the TPS? I don't believe this bike has electronic advance, or does it. So what would the TPS's function be otherwise, and what if its missing?

Second - There are two wires (Red/BLK and Green/Blue) that are cut at the L side wiring harness - See 'Wiring pic 1'. These come directly from the ICU (Ref A on wiring diag attached). In the wiring diagrams it shows these going to neutral switch (Ref B on wiring diag). However, the neutral switch has only 1 blue wire coming out of it from the engine and this 'blue' neutral switch wire goes to diode (Ref C on wiring diag).
> The diode itself has three wires (Blue/Blk, Green/Blue) - the blue goes to the N switch, the Blue black to the N light, and the green to the side stand relay. (see Wiring pic
> The N light is working - so the switch is working.
> There's only one wire coming out of the neutral switch on the engine - the blue one and its connected to the diode -
See 'Wiring pic 2'.
> The side-stand switch system is working.
>> Q - What are the 2 cut wires for if everything is connected and working?

Any insights to this appreciated.
Thanks....
sunnyorlando

23

BIKES/PARTS/GEAR for sale/wanted / Bandit 1200 Red Tank

« Last post by sunnyorlando on February 03, 2021, 10:25:37 AM »

I have available a red Bandit fuel tank - see attached pics

> No dents, a couple of round paint dings on L rear - see circled in pic 3a
> No hardware, tank only
> Local pick up in Orlando OR buyer pays shipping
> Knowing what good tanks go for, feel free to make an offer + shipping

> I need some '99 Bandit parts - trades considered
>> Black tank not dented, minor scratches OK. I believe its a 44100-26E61-2JX.
>> Rear fender - 63100-26E30
>> Rear cover frame (around tail light) 47331-26E00-291 (Black)
>> Tail light 35710-26E30
>> Seat - I have a Corbin that needs to be re-covered, foam is good. Willing to trade for OEM in good condition

May need more later

Thanks
sunnyorlando

24

GENERAL MECHANICAL & TECHNICAL / 1999 1200SX Rebuild

« Last post by sunnyorlando on January 31, 2021, 12:22:56 PM »

Hello.. Rerturnig to this forum with a new 1200S/ SX project.

I'm looking for someone with Bandit experience. I'm on my second fixer-upper Bandit 1200 - first was a 2000 and this one is a 1999.
Its a bit rough, but will make a decent fun ride. I'm working through mechanical and electrical details and I have manuals, microfiches and parts are available as you all probably know - pretty much what I need. Except someone to bounce questions off of.
Anyone here that can help? I'll post the specifics if someone can.

Thanks!

25

BIKES/PARTS/GEAR for sale/wanted / Givi Wingrack & mounting kit WANTED Gen 1 Bandit 1200

« Last post by ZipTi on October 16, 2020, 01:20:43 PM »

Wrecked my 1998 GSF1200S and damaged the Givi WingRack2 luggage mounting rack and looking for complete kit (Y513) or parts.
please contact me @ stathome@bellsouth.net

Thanks, edward

26

SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 / Torque setting

« Last post by chamarang on August 29, 2020, 05:43:53 AM »

Hello. I need the torque settings of all the bolts of suzuki gsf250 92.if anyone have please give me it. Verry helpful for me

27

BIKES/PARTS/GEAR for sale/wanted / 1st gen gel seat SOLD

« Last post by ZipTi on June 27, 2020, 01:56:21 PM »

I have a 1st gen gel seat for sale email for details & pictures, shipping at cost.
$100 good condition no rips or tearing. SOLD

Thanks, eh
stathome@bellsouth.net

28

SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 / Re: Fork Length

« Last post by interfuse on June 23, 2020, 11:45:44 AM »

From the axle bolt center to the top of the triple tree I get 29.75" or 75.5 cm.

29

SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 / Re: Throttle Cable / Carb issue? *Victory!

« Last post by stormi on June 10, 2020, 05:31:11 PM »

I bought a new OEM cable, and it didn't make a difference at all.
And yes I did double-check the routing. I even tried tightening it down with tie wraps, or the complete opposite. Left side, right side, through the middle hole in the frame. I tried everything. Bot old and new OEM cable. But like I said, even if I have the cable straight through the air with the tank off or even disconnected out of the bike I can make one end move by bending it. It is not related to routing or slack.

Tie wraps would likely make the problem worse by increasing friction because of tiny bends. 
The cable will move if you bend the housing because physics.  I can't explain it well enough but if you can find a good bicycle forum where they are building / modding - someone will eventually explain it better than I can but the distance the cable has to travel through a bend is greater than through a straight. Therefore you're describing normal behaviour. 

What you're describing points to exactly what I'm saying:  There's a flaw in the way that cable is designed. You could buy 30 OEM cables with the same part # and they will all be as frustrating.

Return spring is fine, throttle plates close instantly when I let go of throttle.

That's what I suspected you'd find.

I did, in fact I did one better and went to a cable specialist, he only works on throttle/brake/clutch cables for 12 years. He changed my OEM cable into a custom one but it didn't resolve the issue, and told me it was the first time he couldn't solve a cable related problem.

I don't necessarily think a cable specialist is better.  He wasn't necessarily the best person for this particular job. Sometimes they're way too set in their ways or they fixate on one way being the right way and can't see the problem for what it is. When he changed the cable - did he duplicate the length difference between the cable and the housing or change it? If he duplicated the length difference, he more than likely built your custom cable with the exact same flaw.   Without knowing what he did, I'm just guessing. 

A really good bicycle builder would probably have it licked very quickly.  Bicycles are way less tolerant of cable issues because they can't use an engine to overcome anything.

Well, it's probably not true, but I think most 1/2 cylinders bikes are not so sensitive on the throttle, and most other bikes have a return cable. Even the Honda CB1 has 2 cables which is closed to bandit 400 I can think of.

As you can imagine, this problem is driving me nuts. The 400 is no longer my primary bike but still.

I'd look up some of the more traditional gymkhana bikes.  I bet you'll find more than a couple with single throttle cable setups.  There's nothing really wrong with a single cable setup when properly set up.  At this point, I believe you can't set it up properly with the equipment you have.  When I mentioned it to the other half, the response was "That damn cable! Yes, it always seemed too short!"  Neither of us misses having to fight with it every time the carbs were off.

I should also mention that my original bars were swapped for another set of what I was positive were original bars (off of another 400) and the bend was different.  Minutely different but different.

It was little issues with my b4 that lead me to finding another bike too.  I got tired of having her torn down to tweak something or having to put up with issues I didn't have on my other bikes. She made me a better mechanic but like the little kid in the Honda commercial: "Please sir, I just want to ride!"
I also notice that Honda's cable routing seems a little more sane.

30

SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 / Re: Throttle Cable / Carb issue? *Victory!

« Last post by Squishy on June 10, 2020, 05:02:02 PM »

Assuming a properly lubricated cable and proper routing (did you download the service manual and double, triple and quadruple check it? I know you said you've tried every routing - but that one's easy to mis-read.), there isn't much to jerk that cable to pull the throttle open - other than the bars at full lock once the bike is assembled again. If the bars are making the rpms rise then there's an issue with either cable or something at one or the other end. Something is making that cable pull the throttle.

I bought a new OEM cable, and it didn't make a difference at all.
And yes I did double-check the routing. I even tried tightening it down with tie wraps, or the complete opposite. Left side, right side, through the middle hole in the frame. I tried everything. Bot old and new OEM cable. But like I said, even if I have the cable straight through the air with the tank off or even disconnected out of the bike I can make one end move by bending it. It is not related to routing or slack.

So, as I see it - there are 2 things you can look at: 

1.Check your return spring - I sincerely doubt this is it because you say it's accelerating from 10 -> 30kmh, which is a significant increase in speed which indicates a lot of extra throttle being pulled.  As in - not that it was being used but slowed by the brake and the brake was suddenly released because I think you'd notice if you suddenly stopped riding the rear brake. Also, there wouldn't be an audible change to the sound of the motor.  I assume there is now or you wouldn't be talking about an rpm rise.  But if you check it, you can say you did your due diligence.   Triple check that the free play adjustment at this end is correct while you're there.  Mine was always adjusted to be the loosest it could be and still caused all of these issues.

Return spring is fine, throttle plates close instantly when I let go of throttle.

2. Take it to a bicycle mechanic - preferably one who builds bicycles.  While they may not be able to make you a legal cable, they're experts at cable routing, reducing friction inside the cable and making sure bends aren't too aggressive and proper cable length vs housings.  Better still if they also ride motorcycles but it's not necessary.  They should be able to tell you what's going on (and also properly explain why a cable has to travel "further" through a bent housing than a straight one, thus producing the effect of "shortening" or pulling it which is why I said that all of the cables you mentioned were behaving as expected. I can't effectively explain it, it's just a truth I know and have seen in action - so have you based on your description.).  The bicycle mechanic I know could troubleshoot and explain it in about 5 minutes flat.  He could also probably make the cable but not every bicycle mechanic can do that.  I'm 100% sure if I had known him when I had my b4 and took the original issue to him, he'd have questioned all sorts of things about that setup:  The fact that it comes straight off the carburetors and has to bend under the tank aggressively and is forced down by the tank causes a lot of friction.  The fact that it can't be assembled with any sort of free play and I bet even the factory routing with all of its bends. 

I did, in fact I did one better and went to a cable specialist, he only works on throttle/brake/clutch cables for 12 years. He changed my OEM cable into a custom one but it didn't resolve the issue, and told me it was the first time he couldn't solve a cable related problem.

I wouldn't say all single cable throttled bikes can't do Gymkhana because of one bike.  That's a really broad statement to infer from a single bike with a mechanical issue.

Well, it's probably not true, but I think most 1/2 cylinders bikes are not so sensitive on the throttle, and most other bikes have a return cable. Even the Honda CB1 has 2 cables which is closed to bandit 400 I can think of.

As you can imagine, this problem is driving me nuts. The 400 is no longer my primary bike but still.